1衬衫的生产工艺20Hrs内容一、衬衫生产企业调研二、衬衫款式描述三、男装衬衫生产工艺流程图四、男装衬衫缝制工艺五、衬衫生产的质量控制2目的要求了解衬衫企业动态了解传统与新潮男装衬衫款式基本特征学习并掌握衬衫工艺流程与工艺分析掌握男装衬衫缝制工艺与质量控制掌握格子衬衫的生产工艺与要求了解衬衫面料的选择本章重点新潮衬衫缝制工艺设计衬衫工艺流程与工艺分析格子衬衫的生产工艺衬衫缝制的质量要求与控制实习操作格子男装衬衫的缝制3参考资料(中国纺织出版社)教材:【成衣工艺学】吴铭、张小良P171参考文献服装制作工艺——实训手册(许涛、第三章衬衫缝制工艺)成衣缝制工艺与管理——成衣产业时代作(陆鑫、第四章衬衫缝制工艺)实物样板零部件步骤板成品样板网络信息与资料FoldersandAttachments:1、衬衫企业案例富绅集团有限公司遵循“千锤百炼,富绅精品”的企业宗旨引进国外先进设备,采用一流的工艺和技术,生产出国内新一代高档衬衫产品以做工精湛,选料严谨,设计新颖包装精美,稳居国内衬衫行业中的领先地位领口形的“V”字形标志,更成为顶级衬衫的象征一、衬衫生产企业调研5金利来集团有限公司1990年,香港著名爱国人士曾宪梓博士创立领导的金利来集团有限公司香港上市公司,总部设于香港,并在中国、新加坡及德国设立分公司,使业务得到全面发展。业务包括服装服饰的生产和零售及物业发展「金利来──男人的世界」声名远播,享誉四方6专业衬衫厂的特点拥有专业的生产设备专业埋夹、上袖、门筒车热熔粘合机圆领机翻领机吸线机辅助设备有专业的生产线生产规模化工序标准化产品高质量工序简单化(工序合并)84人一组通过网络信息,寻找3家衬衫企业评论该3家企业的相关特点规模生产设备先进性加工方式流水线与技术特征产品特征工艺质量其它要求完成PPT文档进行课堂演示课后小组作业9二、款式描述1、便装衬衫前幅(前中开口、口袋等)后幅(担干、活褶)领子(一片、二片)下摆(平脚、园脚)袖子(短袖、长袖)102、紧身衬衫(传统男装衬衫)前幅(前中明筒开口、口袋等)后幅(担干、工字褶)领子(二片领)下摆(平脚、园脚)袖子(长袖、袖级、三尖袖叉)113、新潮款式前后幅特征领子下摆前明同胸袋袖口特殊款式细节个性化时装化休闲化12三、衬衫生产工艺流程131、流程图设计流程图一MakingupaMen’sDressShirt2、生产流水线的平衡考虑大量生产工序细分情况工人技术设备先进性产品质量高低其它141、裁片准备前幅*2后幅*1明筒*1明筒衬里*1四、缝制工艺与实训指导15袖子*2担干*2领子(上下级)*2口袋*1袖级*2三尖袖侧(大小)*2领子衬里(上下级)*1袖级衬里*2大小袖侧*2162、零部件缝制领子落插竹(可省略)粘衬:上下级粘衬、领角衬包下级领脚:1CM子口,0.5CM间线画领子实样(纸板辅助)运上级领(RS-RS)修子口,反烫领子(领尖对称)间上级领0.6CM线17运下级翻领线修子口,反烫翻领线间翻领边线熨烫检查A.VariousCollarOperations18A.VariousCollarOperationsHemsthecollarbandbeforeitisattachedtothecollarPleasespecifyhemsizeandstitchmargin.WerecommendanedgeguidefoottomaintainpropermarginsFootandGuideassistinturningandtopstitchingfrontandbackcollarbandsaftertheyhavebeensewntothecollar.Producesaconsistentstitchmarginalongthebead.19袖级粘衬:面袖级粘衬包袖级衬、子口1CM、0.6CM间线运袖级(实样辅助)运袖级:RS-RS,头未回针袖子口、翻烫袖级间袖级边线烫袖级检查G.CuffHemming-LongSleeve20三尖袖叉剪袖叉烫大小袖叉,注意左右对称H.SettingSleevePlackets21夹小袖侧夹大修侧,车缝袖叉横位运烫检查22H.SettingSleevePlacketsUsedtosewacontinuousfacingaroundthesleeveopening.Folderisdesignedforeasyloadingofshortpieces.Edgeguidefootisrecommended.Designedforsewingshortpiecesinstraightrunsonthesleeveopening.Foldersareavailableintopandbottomsetswhencutsizesoftopandbottomplacketstripsaredifferent.Edgeguidefootisrecommended.23前幅烫右前幅钮筒宽度3CM车钮筒3CM线粘左明筒衬,并烫子口(3CM宽)运反间左明筒(0.6CM线)K.AttachCenterPlacket24K.AttachCenterPlacketTopCenterFolderAttachesthecenterplaittotheshirtbody.Folderfeaturesaseparateconcaveliningtrack,whichallowseasierstartsforalltypesoffabricsandatightfinisharoundthelining.Bedplatemountorswingbracketmountisavailable.Bodyhemmerprovidedwithfolder.Pleasespecify:man'sorladies'shirt-liningfromrightorleft.25点左胸袋位还2CM袋口,烫袋形绱三尖胸袋(边线或0.6CM线)运烫前幅C.PocketHemmingThisattachmentisusedtohemthetopsofpockets.Manydifferentfolderstylesareavailabletosuityourparticularneed.Pleasespecifyfinishedsize,stitchmargin,andtheamountofin-tuckrequired.Specialpresserfootrecommended.26后幅打褶(工字褶或活褶)运担干B.YokingAndShoulderJoining27合并前后幅(明线或暗线方式)明线连接前后肩线(RS-RS)间明线肩线(据款式需求)28B.YokingAndShoulderJoiningUsedtoattachtheyoketothefrontandbackpanelsoftheshirt.Bothfolderscanbemadeleftorright.Thisfolderturnsdownthetopplyandjoinsittotwoadditionalplys.Thebottomplyisthenturnedbacktoformtheyoke.Specialfootisrecommended.FootandGuideassistinturningandtopstitchingfrontandbackcollarbandsaftertheyhavebeensewntothecollar.Producesaconsistentstitchmarginalongthebead.29绱袖(5线锁边或包缝):对齐刀口位与左右袖方向缝合侧骨(5线锁边或包缝)J.SleeveSetting30J.SleeveSettingTherearetwotypesofvariationsfortheSleeveSettingSingleNeedleSleevingSetofguidesforjoiningthearmholetothesleeveonhighqualityshirts.Adjustablemarginsettings.Specialpresserfootisrecommended.Turnsthesleeveupasthebodyispulledoverandstitcheddown.Producesaqualityfinishandappearance.Specialpresserfootisrecommended.31I.ClosingSideSeamsLapSeamFoldersLapseamfoldersareusedtoclosesideseams.Lapseamfoldercanalsobemadewithaspringrelease,whichwillallowsleeveseamtopassthroughfreely.Pleasespecifymakeandgaugeofmachineandsendmaterialwithasampleofthesleeveseams.32D.CuffHemming-ShortSleeveInadditiontotheplainhemmer,avarietyoffoldersareavailableforfinishingshortsleeves.Twoofthemostpopularareillustratedbelow.ThesefoldersmayalsobeusedtohemthetopsofpocketsProducestailoredcuffonknitanddressshirts.Maybeusedonlockstitchorchainstitchmachines.Stripesandplaidsareeasilymatched.Pipingandothertypesoftrimmayalsobeadded.Specialedgeguidefootisrecommended.Producesatailoredcuffonknitanddressshirts.Mustbeusedonlockstitchmachines.Specialfootisrecommended.33夹袖级:注意底面G.CuffHemming-LongSleeve34G.CuffHemming-LongSleeveForuseonlockstitchmachineswithliningandfacegoodsinshortpieces.Hemmerisadjustabletoallowfordifferentsizeliningandfacegoods.Pleasespecifyhemsizeandstitchmargin.Specialpresserfootisrecommended.Foruseonchainstitchmachineswithlininginrollsandfacegoodsinpiecesorrolls.Hemmerisadjustabletoaccommodatedifferentsizeliningandfacegoods.Pleasespecifyhemsizeands