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盐城纺织职业技术学院2012届毕业设计（论文）题目Tencel/苎麻混纺直贡织物的工艺设计专业现代纺织技术（丝绸911）学号09106116姓名李娜娜指导老师张国兵交稿日期二〇一一年十二月Tencel/苎麻混直贡纺织物的工艺设计摘要Ⅰ摘要随着科学技术的进步以及人们生活水平的提高，消费者对纺织品的要求越来越高，除了纺织品本身的风格外，纺织品的舒适性、保健性、功能性等也日益被消费者所重视，近几年来新型纤维的出现和发展满足了消费者的需求。本文以Tencel/苎麻混纺直贡织物的工艺设计为对象设计面料。天丝被誉为二十一世纪的绿色纤维。具有柔软悬垂、触感独特、飘逸动感、透气透湿、素雅光泽等特点，给人以满足、安全、充满质感、高贵大方的感觉。苎麻具有抗菌抑菌、除臭吸附、吸湿透气、防霉耐磨功能。苎麻的耐磨性好，可以弥补缎纹耐磨性差的缺点。直贡织物结构紧密，经纬交织点较少，经纱在织物表面浮线较长，布面大部由经纱所覆盖，因而质地柔软，富有光泽。选用天丝和苎麻为原料，加之直贡的布面效果，既能充分发挥原料本身的优良性能，又具有良好的手感和视觉效果。本论文主要论述了织物的风格特征和作用，织物的规格设计与计算以及工艺流程。络筒工艺设计，整经工艺设计，浆纱工艺设计，穿结工艺设计，织造工艺设计，整理工艺设计和结论等内容。具体介绍了各部分工艺设计的目的和要求，设备选型，具体参数和设计。关键词：Tencel，苎麻，混纺，工艺设计。作者：李娜娜导师：张国兵Tencel/苎麻混直贡纺织物的工艺设计AbstractⅡAbstractWiththeadvancesintechnologyandpeople'slivingstandardsimprove,consumershavebecomeincreasinglydemandingoftextiles,textileproductsinadditiontotheirownstyle,textilecomfort,health,functionality,etc.arealsoincreasinglyvaluedbyconsumers,inrecentyearstheemergenceanddevelopmentofnewfibertomeettheneedsoftheconsumers.Inthispaper,Tencel/Ramieblendedsatinfabrictechnologydesignedforobjectdesignfabrics.Tencelknownasthe21stcenturygreenfiber.Withasoftdrape,feelunique,elegantmovement,breathablebreathable,elegantluster,etc.,tomeetpeople,safe,fulloftexture,nobleandgenerousfeeling.Ramiehasantibacterial,deodorantadsorption,moisturepermeability,mildewresistantfeatures.Ramiewearresistance,andcanmakeupfortheshortcomingsofpoorwearresistancesatin.Tencelandramieusedasrawmaterials,combinedwiththefabricsatineffectmaterialcanfullyplaytheirexcellentperformance,butalsohasagoodfeelandvisualeffects.Thispaperdiscussesthecharacteristicsofthefabricofstyleandfunction,designandcalculationoffabricandprocessspecifications,windingprocessdesign,processdesignwarping,sizingprocessdesign,processdesignbywearingknot,weavingprocessdesignandfinishingprocessesdesignandconclusionsofsuchcontent.Specificallydescribesthevariouspartsofthepurposeandrequirementsoftheprocessdesign,equipmentselection,thespecificparametersanddesign.Keywords:Tencel,ramie,blended,processdesign.Author:LiNaNaTeacher:ZhangGuoBingTencel/苎麻混直贡纺织物的工艺设计目录目录摘要...............................................................ⅠAbstract...........................................................Ⅱ前言................................................................1第一章规格设计和工艺流程...........................................21.1规格设计.....................................................21.2工艺流程.....................................................51.3上机图.......................................................5第二章原料选配.....................................................62.1原料.........................................................62.2捻度.........................................................62.3经纬纱密度...................................................62.4质量的要求...................................................6第三章络筒工艺设计.................................................73.1络筒的目的和要求.............................................73.1.1目的...................................................73.1.2络筒的要求.............................................73.2设备选型.....................................................73.3工艺设计中注意的问题.........................................83.4具体工艺选配.................................................83.5产质量的控制.................................................94.1整经的目的、要求............................................104.1.1整经的目的............................................104.1.2整经的要求............................................104.2整经方法....................................................104.3设备选配....................................................104.4工艺设计中注意的问题........................................114.5具体的工艺选配..............................................114.6产质量控制..................................................15第五章浆纱工艺设计................................................165.1浆纱的目的、原理和方法.....................................165.1.1浆纱的目的............................................165.1.2浆纱基本原理..........................................165.1.3上浆的方法............................................165.2上浆的要求..................................................175.3设备选型....................................................175.4浆料配方和各种成分作用......................................185.5具体的工艺配备..............................................185.6产质量控制..................................................19第六章穿结工艺设计................................................206.1设配选型....................................................206.2工艺设计注意的问题..........................................206.3具体工艺配备................................................20Tencel/苎麻混直贡纺织物的工艺设计目录6.5产质量控制..................................................21第七章纬纱工艺设计................................................227.1定捻的目的和方法............................................227.2具体工艺选配................................................22第八章织造工艺设计................................................238.1设备选型....................................................238.2工艺设计中注意的问题........................................238.3具体的工艺配备..........................