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TextileTradeandtllePatternofEconomicGrowthByGregorySchmidandOwenPhillipsContents:I.PatternsofTrade.--II.EfficientProductionandExportPerformance.--III.SuccessfulExportersandEconomicDevelopment.--IV.Conlusion.Inthepost-WorldWarIIera,theinternationaleconomyexperiencedaperiodofextremelyrapidgrowthinworldtrade.Thisboomperiodreacheditspeakinthelatei96osandearlyi97os.Thegrowthintradecreatedsomenotableopportunitiesforincreasingexportsofmanufac-turedgoodsfromthedevelopingcountries.Certaindevelopingcountrieshavebeenabletotakeadvantageoftheseopportunities,especiallythoseinvolvedintradeintextilesandapparel.Thisarticleexaminesthepatternsoftradeintextilesandapparel,factorsofproductionthatareassociatedwithexportcompetitiveness,andtheimpactofoverallcompetitivenessonthedevelopmentprocess.I.PatternsofTradeTherelativelystableenvironmentforinternationaltransactionsestab-lishedafterWorldWarIIencouragedgrowthintrade.Between1954and1959,worldtradeexpandedbyanaverage5.2percentperyearinU.S.dol-larvalue;between196oand1967,by8.2percentperyear;between1968and1974,by22.6percentperyear.Growthratesinvolumetermsweremoremodest,thoughtheincreasewasstillsignificant:5.2percent,7.3per-cent,and9.7percentinthethreeperiods[IMF,var.iss.].ThetradeboomofthelateI96OSandearlyI97OSwasevenmorepro-nouncedinthetextileandapparelmarkets.Between1968and1974,thedollarvalueoftextiletraderoseby18.9percentperyear;appareltraderoseindollarvalueby21.6percentperyear.Sincetextileandapparelpricesrosemuchlessthanpricesofothertradedgoods,thevolumein-creasewasmuchlargerthanthatofalltradedgoods.Thevolumeoftextileproductsexpandedby13.2percentperyear,thevolumeofapparelby17.2percent,comparedwith9-7percentforalltradedgoods[UN,Year-bookofInternationalTradeStatistics,I969ff.]1.Remarl~:ThestudywasfinancedbyagrantoftheFordFoundation.Textile(SITC65)andapparel(SITC84I)exportsaredeflatedbytheU.S.wholesalepriceindexfortextilesandapparel.SeeIMF(var.iss.];U.S.DepartmentofLabor[1975].TextileTradeandthePatternofEconomicGrowthz95Duringthisboomperiod,theshareoftheworldmarketintextilesandapparelthatwenttodevelopingcountriesincreased.TableIshowstheaverageannumgrowthintextileandapparelexportsforthemajorindus-trialcountriesandthemajorexportingdevelopingcountries.Sinceonaveragethedevelopingcountryexportershadhigherratesofexportgrowth,theirshareoftotalworldmarketincreaseddramaticallyinap-parelandtoalesserdegreeintextiles(Table2).ThiswasespeciallytrueforcertaindevelopingcountrieslikeBrazil,Colombia,Greece,andKorea.Thisgoodperformancebythedevelopingcountryexporterswasimpor-tanttotheiroveralleconomicperformanceduringtheperiodbecausetextileandapparelexportswereamajorshareoftheirtotalexportsofmanufacturedgoods(Table3).Hence,totheextentthatdevelopingcountriesdependonexportearningsforfurtherdevelopment,textileandapparelexportsareextremelyimportant.TableI--TextileandApparelExports,1968--1974(annumaveragepercentincreaseindollarvalue)IndustrialcountriesTex-Ap-DevelopingcountryTex-Ap-tilesaparelbexporters,tilesaparelbWestGermany.CanadaUnitedStatesBelgiumItalyNetherlands.JapanUnitedKingdom...aSITC61.--bSITC841.I23,319.917.7:17.6]16.I15.514.o11.821,325.313.621.817.125.1--'317.3ColombiaBrazilGreeceKoreaTunisiaSpainPhilippines...Singapore...PortugalEgyptIsraelMaltaIndiaI64.960.955.539.038.331.o3o.118.815.912.79.08.67.498.8151.750.348.667.433.I77.734.427.144.924,941-345.6Table2--TextileandApparelMarketShares,1967and1974(percent)Textiles19671974IDevelopingCountriesi5.4I8.6IEightIndustrialCountries 9 9-64-959.9iSource:UN[YearbookofInternationalTradeStatistics,var.iss.]Apparel19671974I17.8[31.857.4i424296GregorySchmidandOwenPhillipsTable3--Shareo/TextilesandApparelinTotalManu/aeturedExportsa,1974(percent)CountryShareCountryShareEgyptMalta...IndiaPortugal...KoreaColombia..Greece...71.259.646.740.438.035.426.2Brazil..Tunisia..PhilippinesSingapore.Israel..Spain..21.821.214.811.4IO.O8.7aTextiles:SITC65;apparel:SITC84x;manufacturedexports:SITC5--8.Source:UN[YearbookofInternationalTradeStatistics,1978].H.EfficientProductionandExportPerformanceOverthelastdecade,thedevelopingcountries'shareofworldtextiletradehasgrown.Thistrendmaybeexplainedbythestandardfactorproportionsmodelofinternationaltrade,whichimpliesthatlow-income,low-wagecountriesshouldhavesomecomparativeadvantageintherel-ativelylabor-intensivetextiletrade.Thestandardfactorproportionsmod-elassumesnoeconomiesofscaleandusuallytwohomogenousfactorsofproduction--laborandcapital.Thecostofcapitalshouldberoughlyequaltoefficientproducersinanycountry,whocancompeteininter-nationalexportmarkets(thoughproducersincertaincountrieswillhaveahardertimeconvincinglendersoffutureprospects).Thus,thecostoflabordeterminestheflowofgoods.Butintheactualworldofinternationaltrade,therearesignificanteconomiesofscale;capitalandlaborarenothomogenous;andthereareprobablyotherimportantfactorsofproductioninherentinsuchthingsasspecializedmanagement,organizational,andmarketingskills.Itislikelythatspecificdevelopingexportersaresuccessfulbecausetheyachievesizableeconomiesorutilizespecialskillsnotavailablet