中国服装史

ThehistoryofChineseclothingMadeby21202530003郭敏21202530004周琳丽21202530005徐妍21202530039陈玉梅ForewordChineseclothinghasalong-termhistory.FortheancientChinese,thepurposeofclotheswasnotjustforprotectingandcoveringthebody,butforshowingprofoundmeaningswhichprevailedinsociety.Thus,observingthedevelopmentofclothesgivesusachancetounderstandtheirsociety,economy,culture,andeventheirmentality.QinandHanDynastyAsuitofclothes:alongtoppartwithabeltaroundthewaistandalowerpartshortsleeveswithahemthehemsoftheneckandsleeveswouldbebeautifullyembroideredHanDynastyChina'scompletecodeofcostumeandtrappingswasestablishedintheHanDynasty(206BC-220AD).HanDynastyhadsomefeatures,SuchasWearersmustexposeunderpants'collarform,asthecollarwasbigandcurving.Clothesmustusewhiteclothascollar.Thewidthofsleevewas0.4meters.Theblousehadnosleeve.Wearersoffurclothesshouldhavethefurfacingoutside.VietnamclothingJapan'sclothing:kimonoKoreanclothingTangDynastyTheunifiedandprosperousChinawasestablishedintheTangDynasty(618-907).InChina'shistory,theTangDynastywasaperiodwhenthepolityandeconomywerehighlydevelopedandthecultureandartwerethriving.FormsofgarmentswerestillthecontinuationoftheHanDynastyandtheSuiDynastyMoreinfluencedbyculturesandartsoftheWesternRegions.TheinfluencesofHufuweregraduallyweakenedandwomen'sgarmentsbecamebroadandloosedaybyday.HowtodressinTangDynasty?Withabeltfastenedabovethebreast.Colorsmostlycameinred,purple,yellowandgreen.Womenwouldputonanadditionaldressmadeoftransparentsilk.Theclothingmaterialswereexquisite,thestructurewasnatural,gracefulandelegant,andadornmentsweresplendid.Features：•Luxurious•beautiful•ElegantSongDynastyAffectedbythethoughtsoflixue,theclothesofSongdynastywereusuallyplain.Mostofvestmentswerebigsleeve.Theyuseddifferentcolorsofclothestotelltheirstatus.Women’sclothesofSongdynastywereverysimilartothoseofHandynasty.Theywerelongdresseswithnarrowsleeves.YuanDynastyMoreandmoregorgeousandfeaturedonrobe.Woreawide-brimmedrainhatinsummerWorefurcoat,leatherbootandleatherhatinwinter.Manyofmandarin’sclotheswererobehadnarrowsleevesMingDynastyThecostumeinMingDynastybasicallyfollowedthestyleofTangandSongDynasties,butthereweresomedifferencesinsizesofshirtandskirt.Narrowsleevedshirt,longskirtandmanteauprevailedintheearlyyearsofMingDynasty.BroadlongsleevedshirtandshortskirtprevailedinthemiddleyearsofMingDynasty.WhileinthelateofMingDynasty,thenarrowlongsleevedshirtwaspopularwithwomen.Thestylesofthecostumeweretheimitationofthedressofcocotte,whichtraitswereplainandelegant.MeninMingDynastyworelongrobes.Women’sclotheswerefeatbody.Theyjustcouldwearlightcolorbutcouldn’tweardeepredandyellow.However,clothesofladieswerefitandslender,suchaslongcoatandlongskirt.Theywouldwearpleatedskirt,longvestandshawl.QingDynastyManchulikedriding-shoot,theirsleevesofrobewerelookedlikeahorse’shoof.Thegownhadbeenworeoutoftherobe,whethermenorwomencouldwearit.Onthevest(馬甲)weremuchadornmentofcolorfulembroider.TherichwomenofQingDynastywouldinlayjadeitecoral,pearlsorwhitejadeontheadornmentwhichwasinsertedonthechignonandworenailcoatsmadeofjeweltoprotecttheirfingernail.Rectangularoutline(外轮廓呈长方形)Clothesdonotgetthewaistdown（衣服上下不取腰身）Horseshoe-shapedsleevecoverhand（马蹄袖盖手）Setrollingcraftdecoration（镶滚工艺装饰）Flowerpotshoes（花盆鞋）NowadaysZhong-Shan(中山)styleclothesappearedaftertheXin-Hairevolution.Thisnewstylecombinesthetraditionalcharacteristicswiththewesternclothes.SunintroducedthestyleMaomadeitpopularIn1949,widelyworn,asasymbolofproletarianunity(无产阶级)anEasterncounterpart（合作伙伴）Inthe1920sand1930s,civilservants(公务员)wererequiredtowearAfterMaodied,thesuitbecamewidelyworn.It'sDeng’sstandardformaldress,andJiangworeitonspecialoccasions1990s:largelyreplacedbytheWesternbusinesssuitBytheearlypartofthe21stcentury,rarelywornTodayabandonedbytheyoungergenerationIntroductionofcheongsamThecheongsam,orQipaoinChinese,isevolvedfromakindofancientclothingofManchuethnicminority.Inancienttimes,itgenerallyreferredtolonggownswornbythepeopleofManchuria,MongoliaandtheEight-Banner.Thegownhadfourslits,withoneontheleft,right,frontandback,whichreachedtheknees.Itwasfittedtothebodyandratherwarm.Fastenedwithawaistband,thelonggowncouldholdsolidfoodandutensilswhenpeoplewentouthunting.TheDevelopmentofCheongsamThecheongsamcamefromtheManchusofNuzhentribes(女真部落).Intheearly17thcentury,Nurhachi（努尔哈赤）unifiedthevariousNuzhentribesandsetuptheEightBannersSysterm.Overtheyears,acollarless,tubeshapedgownwasdeveloped,whichwaswornbybothmenandwomen.ThatistheembryooftheQipao.ThecheongsamgoesMainstreamItcanbeworeinmanysituations,suchassocialgatherings、weddings,andsoon，suggestingthatithasbecamethenationaldress.Itissomethingofavogueathomeandabroad.Manyforeignwomenareeagertogetacheongsam,itisnolongeragarmentparticulartoChinesewomen,butforwomenallovertheworld.TangzhuangincontemporaryChina(1980–present)Followingtherelaxationofcommunistclothingstandardsinthelate70s,thewayChinesedressedandthefashiontrendsofthecountrywerealsochanging.Withagreatvarietyofstyles,colorsandmaterials,theTangzhuanghasbeencreepingintofashion