服装制作标准

1GarmentsConstructionStandards服装制作标准Contents目录Section1:-Componentsandtrims成分和辅料Fabric面料Interlinings粘衬Internaltrims内部辅料Linings里布Threads缝纫线Zips拉练Buttons纽扣Fastenings,rivetsandstuds扣合件，铆钉和工字扣Trims,beltsandmotifs饰边，腰绳和花边Elastication橡筋Accessories服饰配件Section2:-Manufacturingguidelines生产指导Garments衣服Accessories服饰配件Section3:-Presentationguidelines外观指导Pressing熨烫FinishedGoods整理Labels标牌Packing包装Section4:-Safety安全性Garments衣服Accessories服饰配件ReplacementNeedleProcedure断针纪录GoodHousekeepingGuide良好的管理指导Section5:-Children‘sSafetyRequirements童装安全性要求Fabric/Materials面料/原料Components成分DesignAspects设计外观TextileAccessories纺织辅料MetalContent金属物料Toxicity毒性Nickel镍•LabTest测试2Internaltrim内部装饰FormenswearPoly/cottonwovenpocketingmustbeused.必须用涤/棉梭织物做男装口袋布。Lining里料Forpaddedgarmentstheliningmustbequiltedorstitchedatappropriateintervalstopreventthepaddingfromfalling.Paddingmustnotescapethroughtheweaveoftheouterfabricoftheinnerlining.对于有填充物的衣服，里料必须衍缝或加缝适当间距的缉线防止填充物陷落。填充物不能透出里布面料。Liningmustnotbevisiblebeyondthehemlineofcuffsofagarment.Theliningmustfinish2.5cm(1inch)abovethehem,andcoverthehemstitching.里料不能吐露服装下摆及克夫。必须在摆上2.5CM(1英寸)处修光边且遮盖下摆缝迹。Thefibresusedintheliningmustbestatedonthecarelab里布面料成分必须注明在洗标上。Sewingthread缝纫线Mustbeagoodcolourmatchunlessintendedasacontrast.必须良好配色除非设计成撞色。Mustbecolourfasttowashingandlight.在洗涤及光照下不能褪色。100%Polyesterthreadmustbeusedonproductswithlowflammabilityrequirements.要求必须用低燃点的100%聚脂纤维缝纫线。Bulkthreadshouldbeusedinover-locklooperswhensewingElastanefabrics.缝制弹性面料时必须用环状锁边缝纫线迹。Monofilamentthreadisnotacceptableforuseatanytime.任何情况下都禁止使用化纤缝线。3SECTION1COMPONENTSANDTRIMS第一部分成分和辅料Thefollowingsectiongivesasummaryofthegeneralqualityassuranceproceduresforcomponentstrims.以下部分将列出关于服装部件的一般品质保证程序概要。Allcomponentstrimsmustbesuitablefortheaftercareofthegarmentaccordingtothewashcareinstructionsgiven.所有服装部件必须与服装上的洗标所显示的内容相吻合。Fabric面料Takecaretomakesurethatallfabricswithraisedfibersthatproduceanap,orfabricthatis‘cutoneway’design,arecutsothatseparatepanelsandseparategarmentpiecesruninthesamedirection.注意所有拉绒的凸面织物，或设计为以一个方向裁剪的面料，必须以同方向缝制拼片和服装部件。Fabricfaultsarenotacceptableingarmentsunlesstheyareinherentinthefabricandareagreedatthebuyingstage.不接受服装面料上的疵点除非是缘于面料本身固有的问题造成的或疵点在客人接受的范围内。Variationsofshadingareunacceptablewithinagarment,orfromonegarmenttoanother.Garmentpiecesmustbenumberedaftercutting.不接受同一件服装上的色差或服装间的缸差。开裁后的服装裁片必须编号防止产生色差。Interlinings粘衬Garmentsshowing‘delamination’(bubbling),gluemarksorstrikethroughcausedbyinterliningarenotacceptable.Allinterliningsmustbeappliedusingcorrecttemperatureswithfusingmachinestestedatregularintervals.不接受由于粘衬导致服装上的分层，起泡，露胶或者穿透。所有的粘衬必须用热熔机械以正确的温度粘贴并且定期测试。4Zips拉链Onlyzipsapprovedbyvisageareaccepted.只接受经过维雅公司确认的拉链。·Springlockorautolockzipsmustbeused.Autolockzipsarepreferred.Pintuckzipsarenotacceptable.必须用弹簧锁或自动锁头拉练。首选用自动锁头拉练。不能用大头针拉练。·Thebaseofanopen-endedzipmustbereinforcedwhereattachedtothefabric.Thezipslidermustnotbeobstructed.拉链缝到面料上底端开口处必须加固，上下拉动拉链时不能有生涩的感觉。·Thetopsofthezipsshouldbesecuredwithatopzipstopwherenecessary.Nosharpedgesshouldprotrudeatthetop.Allsurpluszipteethshouldberemoved.拉链顶端需要处必须有齿止安全保护。顶端不能有突出的锋利边缘，多余的拉齿必须剪掉。Theremustbenosharpedgesexposedatthebottomoftheziptape.Thesemustbetrimmedbackorifpossibleenclosedinthehemfabric.Allmetalpartsmustberemoved.拉链码带底部不能留有锋利的边缘，反面必须修光，如果缝于下摆上，所有的金属部分必须清除。Buttons纽扣Allgarmentsmustcarryasparebuttonofeachligneused.Theremustbe2sparebuttonsifthegarmenthas10buttonsormore.所有的服装上每个款式的纽扣必须留有一颗备纽，若服装上有十颗或者更多此款纽扣，必须留有两颗备钮。Buttonsmustbesecurelyattachedusingalockstitchmachine.纽扣必须用双线缝纫钉扣机缝钉牢固。Metalcomponentsmustbenickelfree.金属成分中不能含镍。Non-toxicbuttonsmustbeused.纽扣必须无毒性。Buttonsusedonchildrenswearmustnotbetwo-part.童装上的纽扣不能是可以分成两个部分的类型。Buttonsusedonchildrenswearmustnotrepresentanyformoffoodsubstance.童装上的纽扣不能有任何和食物主旨相关的图案。5Fastenings,poppers,andstuds扣合件，铐纽和工字扣Fasteningmustbesecurelyattachedtothegarmentwithoutcausingdamagetothefabricofthefasteneritself.Theremustbenosharpedges扣合件必须安全牢固得缝制在服装上且不能由于扣合件本身导致面料破损，不能有尖锐的边缘。Metalfastenersandcomponentsmustnotrustafterwashing.金属扣合件和辅料水洗后不能生锈。Postfastenersmustnotbeusedonwovenfabricsandprongsonknittedfabrics.扣合件中的纽柱不能用于梭织面料，不能叉在针织面料上。Thelengthofthepostorprongmustbeappropriateforthefabricthickness.纽柱的长度或裆叉必须适合面料的厚度。Lightweightknittedfabricsmayrequireinterliningtopreventladdering.薄型针织面料可能需要夹层防止抽丝。Allgarmentswithfasteningsmustbeopenedandclosedduringinspection.所有用扣合件的服装在检查时必须查核扣合件的开闭情况。Allfasteningsmustmeetcustomerspulltestregulations.所有扣合件必须经过客人的拉力测试规则。Recordofpulltestingshouldbekeptfor1year.拉力测试记录应当保持一年。Belts,trimsandmotifs腰带，饰边和花边Ifdetachabletrimse.g.belts,arenotwashable,thismustshownonthesewn-incarelabel.可脱卸的装饰物例如腰带等，若不可水洗，必须在洗标上注明。Ifmotifsprintsandtrimscan’tbeironed,thismustbeshownonthesewn-inlabel.若装饰物或印花不可熨烫，必须在洗标上注明。Theremustbebackingonfabricofwashablebelts.可水洗的绳带必须在面料上打回针牢固。Elastication橡筋Stitchingmustnotcrack.缝制时不能断裂。Thejoinoftheelasticmustbesecuredbydoublestitchingtoatleast2cm.接缝橡筋时必须安全双缝牢固至少2公分左右。Elasticshouldbeattachedinawaythatpreventstwistingorrolling.Anyfullnessmustbedistributede