服装基本制造流程

INSPECTIONDIVISIONTRAININGMATERIALTitle:BasicManufacturingProcessforGarment(Bag)DocumentNo.:TRA-HKG-IT-003RevisionNo.:3IssueDate:01March2003Page:1of49HowToMakeUpAGarmentINSPECTIONDIVISIONTRAININGMATERIALTitle:BasicManufacturingProcessforGarment(Bag)DocumentNo.:TRA-HKG-IT-003RevisionNo.:3IssueDate:01March2003Page:2of49GeneralitiesonsewingneedsforDifferentGarmentsTherequirementsforthemanufactureofspecificgarments:Thegarmentstobemanufacturedleadtodesigningtheprocessofmanufacture,whichformsthebasisofthesequenceofoperationsinthesewingroom,whoseworkcontentismeasuredbytheirstandardtimes.Furtherthetypeofgarmentstronglyinfluencesthestitchtypeselectedandthebasicmachineryusedintheoperations.Thelargecomponentintheworkplacelayoutinfluencesthesizeofwork-placerequiredfortheoperations.Theorganizationofinspectionalsostemspartlyfromthetypeofgarment.Thefeasiblewaytoplantheproductionforthemanufactureofspecificgarmentistoproduceamanufacturingspecificationsheet,fromwhichwecouldstatethegeneralrequirementstodirectthemethodtomakingupthegarment.Forexample,operation,machinetype,seamtype,stitchtype,stitchdensity,andqualityrequirement(ifpossible).Methodtopreparespecificationsheet:a.Analysethestructureofthespecificgarment.b.Breakdowntheoperationrequiredtoproducetherequirementofeachcomponent,forexample:thespecificfeaturedesignedinthegarmentwillrequirespecialmethods,equipment,andattachmenttobeusedtosatisfytherequirement.c.Determinethesuitabilityofthepresentequipmentandmachinery,whichwillinfluencethemethodtobeusedtomakeupthegarment.d.Compilethecustomer’srequirement,qualityrequirementandtolerance.INSPECTIONDIVISIONTRAININGMATERIALTitle:BasicManufacturingProcessforGarment(Bag)DocumentNo.:TRA-HKG-IT-003RevisionNo.:3IssueDate:01March2003Page:3of49A.Generalmanufacturingworkflowforgarments:DesignPatternmarkingSamplemakingSpreadingMarkermakingPatternGradingCuttingFusingBundlingSewingFinishedGarmentFinishingINSPECTIONDIVISIONTRAININGMATERIALTitle:BasicManufacturingProcessforGarment(Bag)DocumentNo.:TRA-HKG-IT-003RevisionNo.:3IssueDate:01March2003Page:4of49B.Generalmanufacturingprocessesforgarments:1)DesignThefirststepinproducingagarmentisthecreationofthedesignandtheconstructionofpatternsforthecomponentsinthedesign.Agoodappareldesignhasthreeparameters:-emotionalappeal(style),utility,anddurability.Theapparelmanufacturermeasuresstyleobjectivelywitharelativescale–theprofitablescaleoftheproduct.2)PatternmakingThedesignercreatesspecificproductsinaccordancewiththetrends.ThePatternmakerdraftsthepatternnecessarytoproducethecreation.Apparelpatternaremadewithoneoftwobasicmethods:-a.Drapingthegarmentonaformormodelwithmuslinorthefabricsusedtomakethegarment.Theproductionpatternistracedfromthemuslinorfabriccuts.(TailorMade)b.Draftingthepatternonpaperwitheitherdirectmeasurementsforthepatternordevelopingthepatterndraftwiththeaidofasloper(basicblock).INSPECTIONDIVISIONTRAININGMATERIALTitle:BasicManufacturingProcessforGarment(Bag)DocumentNo.:TRA-HKG-IT-003RevisionNo.:3IssueDate:01March2003Page:5of493)SamplemakingInthegarmentindustry,itistraditionaltoindicatetherequirementbymeansofasamplegarment.Thesamplemaybemockup(quicklymake)ofthedesignersorpurchasersbasicideaorrequirementoritmayshowtherequirementindetail.Thesampleisnecessarytoillustratethoseaspectsofdesignandmanufacturewhichitisnotpossible(ofpractical)todescribeindetailinwordse.g.shapesofcollars,pockets,flaps,etc.Ingeneral,itispossibletoillustratemanyofthefeaturesbymeansofdrawingsorphotographs,butpeopleengagedingarmentproductionwouldusuallyfindengineeringtypedrawingsdifficulttounderstandwithoutspecialtraining.Hence,theuseofsamplescanensurethemanufacturertounderstandthetypesofgarmentrequestedbycustomerandthecorrectproductionmethodsusedforthefurtherbulkproduction.a)Typesofsamples:Basically,thereareFourtypesofsamples:1.Initiallysample2.Approvalsample3.Salesmansample/Sizesetsample4.ShipmentsampleINSPECTIONDIVISIONTRAININGMATERIALTitle:BasicManufacturingProcessforGarment(Bag)DocumentNo.:TRA-HKG-IT-003RevisionNo.:3IssueDate:01March2003Page:6of49I)InitiallysamplesPreparation:a)Material:shouldbethesamematerialasrequestedbycustomersorascloseaspossibleifunavailable.b)Colour:trytomatchtherequirementifpossible.c)Accessories:Usetheexactrequestedaccessoriesorascloseaspossible.Inspection:a)Dimension:measurementshouldbekeptastheproductionsheetifindicated.b)Silhouette:accordingtothedesignillustration.c)Designdetail:shouldfollowthesketchexactly.d)Fitting:takecareoftheeffectofcuttingwhetheritisinproportiontothehumanfigureandthedraftingeffectetc.II)ApprovalsamplesPreparation:a)Material:shouldusethesamematerialasrequestedbycustomers.b)Colour:matchtherequirement.c)Accessories:usetheexactrequestedaccessories.Inspection:a)Dimension:measurementshouldbekeptastheproductionsheetaswellasthemeasurementchart.b)Silhouette:mustbekeptaccordingtothedesignillustration.c)Designdetail:shouldfollowexactlytheproductiondesignsheet.d)Fitting:takecareoftheeffectofcuttingwhetheritisinproportiontothehumanfigureandthedraftingeffectetc.e)Sewingfaults:-stitchfo