服装部位

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1服装部位结构名称上装前身的部位名称表袋cashpocket前中centerfront后中centerback胸chest领子collar上级领collarfall领扼位collarnotch领尖collarpoint下级领collarstand衣肩shoulder肩缝shoulderseam指在肩膀处,前后衣片相连接的部位。领嘴notch领底口末端到门里襟止口的部位。裁片cuttedpieces,cutpieces,cutparts衣大身bodice,body大身衣片bodypiece前身里子frontlining全(半)衬里full(half)lining活动里detachablelining脱卸里zip-outlining防缩里shrink-prooflining腰节waistline〔前过肩frontyoke〕连接前身与肩合缝的部件,也叫前育克。领嘴notch衣胸chest,breast,bosom(衬衫)硬衬胸frontstiff前幅,前襟forepart,front,frontpanel左(右)前襟left(right)forepart单(双)襟single(double)breast开襟opening,placket,openfront,cardiganfront全襟fullopenfront长开襟deepplacket半开襟placketfront,necklineplacket对襟frontopening偏襟slantingfront,sideopening曲襟crankopening门襟frontfly;topfly〔在人体中线锁扣眼的部位。〕明门襟frontstrap,frontband,boxpleatfront,topcenterplait,topcenter,placketfront,necklineplacket贴门襟facingstrap〔翻门襟,也叫明门襟贴边,指外翻的门襟贴边。〕暗门襟frenchfront,plainfront,wrapoverfront,buttonpanel,coverplacket2假门襟mockfly门襟里搭袢flytongue里襟underfly〔指钉扣的衣片。〕门襟止口:frontedge门襟的边沿止口frontedge〔也叫门襟止口,是指成衣门襟的外边沿。〕搭门overlap〔指门襟与里襟叠在一起的部位。〕前搭门frontoverlap袖窿armhole〔也叫袖孔,是大身装袖的部位。〕驳头:lapel门里襟上部翻折部位驳头川lapel〔里襟上部向外翻折的部位。〕平驳头notchlapel〔与上领片的夹角成三角形缺口的方角驳头。〕戗驳头peaklapel〔驳角向上形成尖角的驳头。〕胸部bust〔指前衣片前胸最丰满处。〕腰节waist〔指衣服腰部最细处。〕摆缝sideseam〔指袖窿下面由前后身衣片连接的合缝。〕里襟:underlap钉钮的衣片底边hem〔也叫下摆,指衣服下部的边沿部位。〕平下摆square-cutbottom,squarefront,plainbottom,flatbottom斜下摆slant-cutbottom弧形下摆curvebottom圆下摆roundbottom衬衣下摆shirttailhem,shirttail罗纹下摆ribbottom下摆折边bottomhem大圆角前摆frontcutaway圆角前摆frontroundcut方角前摆frontsquarecut,squarefront衣边edge止口圆角frontcut〔指门里襟下部的圆角造型。〕止口圆角点线frontcutpoint串口gorgeline〔指领面与驳头面的缝合线,也叫串口线。〕领串口gorgeline假眼:mockbuttonhole不开眼口的装饰用扣眼驳口foldlineforlapel〔驳头翻折的部位,驳口线也叫翻折线。〕领驳口foldlineforlapel下翻折点〔指驳领下面在止口上的翻折位置,通常与第一粒纽扣位置对齐。〕扣位buttonposition〔纽扣的位置。〕扣眼buttonhole眼距button-holespace〔指扣眼之间的距离。〕圆锁眼eyeletbuttonhole平锁眼straightendbuttonhole,flatbuttonhole花式扣眼fancybuttonhole假扣眼mockbuttonhole,decorationbuttonhole扣眼位buttonposition3扣眼档buttondistance滚眼weltbuttonhole〔用面料包做的嵌线扣眼。〕单排扣〔里襟上下方向钉一排纽扣。〕双排扣〔门襟与里襟上下方向各钉一排纽扣。〕前后披肩:frontorbackshouldercape覆盖在肩部前后的部件袖口折边cuffhem口袋折边pockethem下卷边roll-downhem反折边turnuphem贴边facing,welt滚边pipededge,weltededge滚条welt嵌条panel中心嵌条centrepanel左右嵌条left(right)sidepanel包边coverededge假缝边tackedge毛边fringe缝头seamallowance,seam,balance领省neckdart〔指在领窝部位所开的省道。〕领口省necklinedart,gorgedart前肩省frontshoulderdart胸省chestdart,breastdart驳头省lapeldart肋省underarmdart,sidedart横省sidedart袖窿省armholedart肘省elbowdart前腰省frontwaistdart〔指开在衣服前身腰部的省道。〕肋省:underarmdart衣服两侧腋下处的省道腋下省〔指衣服两侧腋下处开的省道。〕前肩省frontshoulderdart〔指开在前身肩部的省道。〕肚省stomachdart〔指在西装大口袋部位所开的横省。〕前身通省:frontopendart从肩缝到下摆的开刀缝通省〔也叫通天落地省,指从肩缝或袖窿处通过腰部至下摆底部的开刀缝。如公主线即是一种特殊的通省,它最早由欧洲的公主所采用,在视觉造型上表现为展宽肩部、丰满胸部、收缩腰部和放宽臀摆的三围轮廓效果。〕钮子:buttonstay钉钮扣的部刀背缝princessseam〔公主线、弯形的开刀缝〕上装后身的部位名称〔总肩宽acrossshoulder〕指在后背处从左肩端经后颈中点(第七颈椎点)到右肩端的部位。4〔后过肩backyoke〕也叫后育克,指连接后衣片与肩合缝的部件。〔背缝centerbackseam〕又叫背中缝,是指后身人体中线位置的衣片合缝。〔背衩backvent〕也叫背开衩,指在背缝下部的开衩。〔摆衩sideslit〕又叫侧摆衩,指侧摆缝下部的开衩。〔后搭门〕指门里襟开在后背处的搭门。〔领窝neck〕指前后衣片在肩部缝合后,再与领子缝合的部位。〔后领省backneckdart〕指开在后领窝处的领省,多呈八字形。〔后肩省backshoulderdart〕指开在后身肩部的省道。〔后腰省backwaistdart〕指开在后腰部的省道。后身通省:backopendart从肩缝到下摆的开刀缝其他省褶曲线省frenchdart鱼型省(褶)fishdartbarrelpleating管形褶裥beehive-pleatskirt蜂巢褶裥裙blindpleat暗褶boxpleats复褶,对裥,和合裥[左右对折的褶裥]cartridgepleats弹带形褶裥,管形褶裥curvedpleat曲形形褶裥doublepleat叠褶everpleat耐久不变的褶裥sidepleat侧褶,旁褶,追加的褶softpleat活褶sunraypleats光线式褶裙,散褶裙stitchedpleat双重褶衣袖词汇sleeve袖子袖里sleevelining大(小)袖里top(under)sleevelining袖型sleeveshape,sleevestyle,sleevemodeling袖窿armhole,scye袖山sleevecap,sleevecuff,cuffopeningsleevehead袖头单袖头singlecuff双袖头doublecuff,frenchcuff,turn-upcuff,foldbackcuff单(双)扣袖头one(two)–buttoncuff两用袖头convertiblecuffsleeveopening袖口松紧袖口elsticcuff罗纹袖口rib-knitcuff5防风袖头stormcuff活动袖头detachablecuff假袖头imitationcuff假翻袖头cuffband,cuffstrap紧袖口braceletcuff束带袖头strppedcuff扇型袖头scallopedcuff褶裥泡状袖头beadcuff无卷边袖头cuffless衬衫袖头wristband袖头里子cufflining袖叉(无搭位)sleeveslit袖叉(有搭位)sleeveplacket大袖衩sleevefacing小袖衩sleeveunderfacing袖衩搭边sleeveoverlap袖衩条sleeveplacket腋部吸汗垫布shield腋下镶布underarmgusset肘部垫布elbowpatch下装的部位名称〔上裆seat〕又叫直裆或立裆,指腰头上口到横裆间的距离或部位。〔烫迹线creaseline〕又叫挺缝线或裤中线,指裤腿前后片的中心直线。〔翻脚口turn-upbottom〕指裤脚口往上外翻的部位。〔裤脚口bottom,legopening〕指裤腿下口边沿。〔横裆thigh〕指上裆下部的最宽处,对应于人体的大腿围度。〔侧缝sideseam〕在人体侧面,裤子前后身缝合的外侧缝。〔中裆legwidth〕指人体膝盖附近的部位。〔脚口折边〕裤脚口处折在里面的连贴边。〔下裆缝〕指裤子前后身缝合从裆部至裤脚口的内侧缝。〔腰头waistband〕指与裤子或裙身缝合的带状部件。〔腰上口〕腰头的上部边沿部位。〔腰缝waistbandseam〕指腰头与裤或裙身缝合后的缝子。〔腰里waistbandlining〕指腰头的里子。〔裤(裙)腰省waistdart〕裤(裙)前后身为了符合人体曲线而设计的省道,省尖指向人体的突起部位,前片为小腹,后片为臀大肌。〔裤(裙)裥pleat〕裤(裙)前身在裁片上预留出的宽松量,通常经熨烫定出裥形,在装饰的同时增加可运动松量。〔小裆缝frontcrutch〕裤子前身小裆缝合的缝子。〔后裆缝backrise)裤子后身裆部缝合的缝子。衫裤部件6夹圈armhole后幅back后浪backrise裤耳beltloop裤脚bottom钮门buttonhole钮子/钮门buttonstand小浪crotch介英cuff死折dart双层介英doublelayercuff双层钮牌doublelayeredfly贴facing钮牌fly折线foldline前幅front前开口frontopening前褶frontpleat前浪frontrise内浪骨inseam唇袋jettedpocket开口opening贴袋patchpocket明筒placket袋布pocketbag袋盖pocketflap侧幅sidepanel侧骨sideseam斜插袋slantpocket夹底线underarmseam裤头waistband7

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