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©2008CourseTechnologyPTR.Nopartofthisbookmaybereproducedortransmittedinanyformorbyanymeans,electronicormechanical,includingphotocopying,recording,orbyanyinformationstorageorretrievalsystemwithoutwrittenpermissionfromThomsonCourseTechnologyPTR,exceptfortheinclusionofbriefquotationsinareview.TheThomsonCourseTechnologyPTRlogoandrelatedtradedressaretrademarksofThomsonCourseTechnology,adivisionofThomsonLearningInc.,andmaynotbeusedwithoutwrittenpermission.Alltrademarksarethepropertyoftheirrespectiveowners.Important:ThomsonCourseTechnologyPTRcannotprovidesoftwaresupport.Pleasecontacttheappropriatesoftwaremanufacturer’stechnicalsupportlineorWebsiteforassistance.ThomsonCourseTechnologyPTRandtheauthorhaveattemptedthroughoutthisbooktodistinguishproprietarytrademarksfromdescriptivetermsbyfollowingthecapitalizationstyleusedbythemanufacturer.InformationcontainedinthisbookhasbeenobtainedbyThomsonCourseTechnologyPTRfromsourcesbelievedtobereliable.However,becauseofthepossibilityofhumanormechanicalerrorbyoursources,ThomsonCourseTechnologyPTR,orothers,thePublisherdoesnotguaranteetheaccuracy,adequacy,orcompletenessofanyinformationandisnotresponsibleforanyerrorsoromissionsortheresultsobtainedfromuseofsuchinformation.ReadersshouldbeparticularlyawareofthefactthattheInternetisanever-changingentity.Somefactsmayhavechangedsincethisbookwenttopress.Educationalfacilities,companies,andorganizationsinterestedinmultiplecopiesorlicensingofthisbookshouldcontactthePublisherforquantitydiscountinformation.Trainingmanuals,CD-ROMs,andportionsofthisbookarealsoavailableindividuallyorcanbetailoredforspecificneeds.ISBN-10:1-59863-406-2ISBN-13:978-1-59863-406-8LibraryofCongressCatalogCardNumber:2007923931PrintedintheUnitedStatesofAmerica0809101112BU10987654321ThomsonCourseTechnologyPTR,adivisionofThomsonLearningInc.25ThomsonPlace■Boston,MA02210■:StacyL.HiquetAssociateDirectorofMarketing:SarahO’DonnellManagerofEditorialServices:HeatherTalbotMarketingManager:JordanCaseyAcquisitionsEditor:MeganBelangerProject/CopyEditor:KeziaEndsleyPTREditorialServicesCoordinator:ErinJohnsonInteriorLayoutTech:BillHartmanCoverDesigner:MikeTanamachiIndexer:SharonShockProofreader:MelbaHoppereISBN-10:1-59863-637-5Formydad,BigLou;mymom,“G;”andMichaelDiMartini,theonewhogavememybreakandshowedmewhattheword“flawless”means.BobbiLane,whosharesacreditwithmeonthecoverofthisbook,isanextraordinarywomanofseeminglyendlessknowl-edgeaboutthisindustry.Ihaveneverseenanyonemoreeffec-tiveateducationaboutthisbusinessinmyentirelife.Shewasabsolutelyinstrumentalingettingthisbookwrittenandwaskindenoughtocontributethewritingonhalfofthephotographersfeaturedinthespotlightsections.IoweBobbianimmeasurabledebtofgratitudeandfeelhonoredtohavehadtheopportunitytocollaboratewithheronthisbook.AverylargethankyoutoallthephotographerswhogaveBobbiandmetheirstoriesandphotographytobefeaturedinthespotlightsections—MicheleClement,BrieChilders,JohnLund,BillSumner,GilSmith,CigHarvey,MarkLeet,CarenAlpert,MarkLiebowitz,PaulElledge,AnthonyNex,RossPelton,andStanMusilek.Iamalsoeternallygratefultothesefriends,lovers,drinkingpartners,andcell-mates—presentedinnoparticularorder—foraidingmeindeliv-eringthisbook.AliDavoudian,DanielleMercury,MarkLeet,AnthonyNex,KeziaEndsley,MeganBelanger,StacyHiquet,JordanCasey,StephanieArculli,AnnieRoss,JigishaBouverat,KimberleyLovato,JamesSkotchdepole,CraigTitley,andChrisRobinson,whoisresponsibleforstartingmeonasecondcareerasawriter.Duringthechaoticfinalstagesofwritingthisbook,alittlefive-year-olddudekeptmesanebyconstantlybeckoningmeawayfrommyworkwithanirresistiblesmileandofferstowrestle,buildafort,orkickbackandwatchamovieaboutfish.ThankstoFlynnwhoshowedmehowimportantitistokeepmovingnomatterhowrockyyourgait.AcknowledgmentsAt18yearsold,LouLeskotapedtwo8x10printsintoaPeeCheeschoolfolderandwalkedintothetopmodelingagencyinSanFrancisco.Lookingtostarthisfashioncareer,hehandedthe“portfolio”overforreview.Threeminuteslaterhewasbackintheelevator,goingdown.Tooignoranttorealizetheuproariouslaughterfromthebookingroomreallywasn’tapositivething,henaivelykeptgoingbackwithnewimagesuntilhecaughtabreak.Undertheguidanceofoneofthetoughestagentsintheindus-try,LoustartedhiscareershootingmodeltestsuntilhewasacceptedattheUniversityofSouthernCalifornia.In1989hecompletedadoublemajorinEnglishandaminorinArtHistory.Aftergraduation,hedecidedtotryhisskillsasaphoto-journalist.Blindluck,goodtiming,andabadhangovercon-tributedtoLoulandinganassignmentthattookhimtoRussiaaspartofMontage,aboldprojecttopublishamagazineinbothcountries,inbothlanguages.Thefirstperiodicalofitskindeverattempted,itwasbasedoutofNovostiPressinMoscow.Addictedtoassignmentworkthattookhimtofaroffplaces,Loucontinuedonwithphoto-journalismfortwomoreyears,untilherealizedhewaswelltraveled,butbroke.LoueventuallylandedbackinSanFranciscowhereherekindledhisfashioncareer.Freshwiththeexperienceofhistravels,hewantedtobringamoreeditorial,story-telling,styletohisfash-ionwork(anextravagantwayofsayinghed