Marrakech-马拉喀什见闻(中英)

1Marrakech马拉喀什见闻1、Asthecorpsewentpasttheflieslefttherestauranttableinacloudandrushedafterit,buttheycamebackafewminuteslater.尸体被抬过去的时候，成群的苍蝇嗡嗡地飞离了餐馆的饭桌，尾随尸体去，几分钟后又嗡嗡地飞了回来。2、Thelittlecrowsofmourners–allmeandboys,nowomen–threadedtheirwayacrossthemarkerplacebetweenthepilesofpomegranatesandthetaxisandthecamels,wailingashortchantoverandoveragain.Whatreallyappealstothefliedisthatthecorpseshereareneverputintocoffins;theyaremerelywrappedinapieceofrayandcarriedonaroughwoodenbierontheshouldersoffourfriends.Whenthefriendsgettotheburying-groundtheyhackanoblongholeafootortwodeep,dumpthebodyinitandflingoveritalittleofthedried-up,lumpyearth,whichislikebrokenbrick.Nogravestone,noname,noidentifyingmarkofanykind.Theburying-groundismerelyahugewasteofhummockyearth.Likeaderelictbuilding-lot.Afteramonthortwonoonecanevenbecertainwherehisownrelativesareburied.一支人数不多的送葬队伍-其中老老小小全是男的，没有女人-挤过一堆堆的石榴，穿行在出租车和骆驼之间，迂回着穿过市场，嘴里还一遍遍地哀号着一支短促的悲歌。真正令苍蝇感兴趣的是这里的尸体从来都不装进棺材，而是只用一块破布裹着，放在一副粗糙的木制担架2上，有死者的四位朋友抬去送葬。达到坟场后，朋友们首先挖出一块一两英尺深的长方形的坑，将尸体扔入坑中，再在上面丢一些像碎砖头一样的干土块。没有墓碑，没有留名，也没有任何身份标志，坟场只不过是一片巨大的如同一块废弃的建筑工地般土丘林立的荒原。一两个月之后，就谁也找不到自己亲人的坟墓之处了。3、Whenyouwalkthroughatownlikethis–twohundredthousandinhabitantsofwhomatleasttwentythousandownliterallynothingexcepttheragstheystandopin–whenyouseehowthepeoplelive,andstillmorehoweasilytheydie,itisalwaysdifficulttobelievethatyouarewalkingamonghumanbeings.Allcolonialempiresareinrealityfoundeduponthisfact.Thepeoplehavebrownfaces–besides,therearesomanyothem!Aretheyreallythesanefleshasyourself?Dotheyevenhavenames?Oraretheymerelyakindofundifferentiatedbrownstuff,aboutasindividualasbeesorcoralinsects?Theyriseoutoftheearth,theysweatandstarveforafewyears,andthentheysinkbackintothenamelessmoundsofthegraveyardandnobodynoticesthattheyaregone.Andeventhegravesthemselvessoonfadebackintothesoil.Sometimes,outforawalkasyoubreakyourwaythroughthepricklypear,younoticethatitisratherbumpyunderfoot,andonlyacertainregularityinthebumpstellsyouthatyouarewalkingoverskeletons.当你徒步走过这样的城镇-在20万当地居民中，至少有2万人除了罩3在身上的一身破布外，其他一无所有-当你看到这些人如何生存，又如何轻易地死去时，你永远难以相信自己是在人类中穿行。但事实上，这正是所有殖民帝国赖以建立的基础。这些人有着棕色的脸孔-而且，他们人数众多！他们果真和你一样是人类吗？他们也有名有姓吗？或者他们只是一种棕色的、像蜜蜂或珊瑚虫那样难以区分的生物呢？他们生于土地，挥汗如雨，忍饥挨饿地过上几年过后，就被埋到坟场里不知名的坟堆下。没有人注意到他们的离去，甚至这些无名坟堆本身也很快会变成一片平地。有时，当你外出散步穿过仙人掌丛时，你会注意到脚下的土地格外不平，只有这些有规则的突起的土包才会告诉你：你正踩在死人骷髅的上面。4、Iwasfeedingoneofthegazellesinthepublicgardens.在公园里，我正在给一只瞪羚喂食。5、Gazellesarealmosttheonlyanimalsthatlookgoodtoeatwhentheyarestillalive,infact,onecanhardlylookattheirhindquarterswithoutthinkingofamintsauce.TheygazelleIwasfeedingseemedtoknowthatthisthoughtwasinmymind,forthoughittookthepieceofbreadIwasholdingoutitobviouslydidnotlikeme.Itnibbledrapidlyatthebread,thenlowereditsheadandtriedtobuttme,thentookanothernibbleandthenbuttedagain.Probablyitsideawasthatifitcoulddrivemeawaythebreadwouldsomehowremainhanginginmid-air.瞪羚几乎是唯一一种活时就让人觉得很美味的动物。实际上，光是看4到它的两条后腿就会令人联想到薄荷酱。我正在喂食的这只瞪羚几乎已经看出我的这点心思，尽管它叼走了我手上的面包，但它显然对我这个人并没有好感。它迅速地轻咬了一口面包，然后低下头，试图用脑袋顶我，然后又啃了口面包，又顶了一次。它大概以为，如果把我撵跑，面包仍会在半空中。6、AnArabnavyworkingonthepathnearbyloweredhisheavyhoeandsidledslowlytowardsus.Helookedfromthegazelletothebreadandfromthebreadtothegazelle,withasortofquietamazement,asthoughhehadneverseenanythingquitelikethisbefore.FinallyhesaidshylyinFrench:“Icouldeatsomeofthatbread.”在附近小路上干活的一个阿拉伯民工放下笨重的锄头，慢慢地侧着身子走向我们。他那诧异的目光从瞪羚移向面包，又从面包移向瞪羚，好像他是第一次见到这样的情形。最后他用法语怯怯的问道：“那面包我能吃点吗？”7、Itoreoffapieceandhestoweditgratefullyinsomesecretplaceunderhisrages.Thismanisanemployeeofthemunicipality.我撕下一片面包，他感激涕零地把面包收在破衣服下的隐蔽地方。这个人是市政当局的一名雇工。8、WhenyougothroughtheJewishquartersyougathersomeideaofwhatthemedievalghettoeswereprobablylike.UndertheirMoorishrulerstheJewwereonlyallowedtoownlandincertainrestrictedareas,andaftercenturiesofthiskindoftreatmentthey5haveceasedtobotheraboutovercrowding.Manyofthestreetsareagooddeallessthansixfeetwide,thehousesarecompletelywindowless,andsore-eyedchildrenclustereverywhereinunbelievablenumbers,likecloudsofflied.Downthecentreofthestreetthereisgenerallyrunningalittleriverofurine.当你经过犹太人居住区时，你可能就会了解中世纪的犹太人区大概是个什么样子。在摩尔人的统治下，犹太人只允许在几个规定的区域内拥有土地，而经历过几个世纪这样的待遇后，犹太人已不再为过度拥挤而头痛了。这儿的许多街道还不及六英尺宽；而房子则没有窗户；眼睛红肿的孩子成群结队，像一群群的苍蝇，四处可见，多得令人难以置信。沿着街中心向下走，往往尿流成河。9、InthebazaarhugefamiliesofJews,alldressedinthelongblackrobeandlittleblackskull-cap,areworkingindarkfly-infestedboothsthatlooklikecaves.Acarpentersitscross-leggedataprehistoriclathe,turningchair-legsatlightningspeed.Heworksthelathewithabowinhisrighthandandguidesthechiselwithhisleftfoot,andthankstoalifetimeofsittinginthispositionhisleftlegiswarpedoutofshape.Athissidehisgrandson,agedsix,isalreadystartingonthesimplerpartsofthejob.在集市上，一大家一大家的犹太人都穿着黑色长袍，头上戴着黑色便帽，在看起来如同洞穴一般光线暗淡、苍蝇遍布的货摊里干活。一个木工盘腿坐在一架古老的车窗旁，速度极快地旋制着椅子腿。他右手6拿弓开动车床，左手引动凿子。由于长期都保持这样的坐姿，他的左腿已经弯曲变形了。他六岁的孙子则坐在旁边，已经开始帮着做些简单的活了。10、Iwasjustpassingthecoppersmiths’boothswhensomebodynoticedthatIwaslightingacigarette.Instantly,fromthedarkholesallround,therewasafrenziedrushofJews,manyofthemoldgrandfatherswithflowinggreybeards,allclamouringforacigarette.Evenablindmansomewhereatthebackofoneoftheboothsheardar