时尚污染-中国纺织专业镇环境调查

IntimatePollutionAnEnvironmentalInvestigationintoTwoTextileTownsinChinaNov30,[e-mail]调查背景InvestigationBackground■绿色和平一直关注中国的水污染问题。GreenpeacehaslongbeenworkingonwaterpollutioninChina.■绿色和平力图揭露和解决工业带来的污染，尤其是有毒有害物质污染问题。Greenpeacefocusesonuncoveringindustrialpollution,especiallyhazardouschemicals.■在实地调查我国水污染现状的过程中，我们发现了纺织行业突出的污染问题，和行业的时尚形象形成了鲜明的对比。Ourfieldinvestigationsrevealedasharpcontrastbetweenthetextileindustry’sfashionableimageandtheseveritypollutionofitsproductionprocesses■为更深入的了解和揭露纺织行业的污染问题，绿色和平对两个“纺织专业镇”进行了调查。Greenpeaceconductedin-depthinvestigationsintotwotextiletownstounderstandandexposetheseverityofthepollutioncausedbythetextileindustry内容目录Outline■两个纺织专业镇概况AtourofXintangandGurao■两地地表水和底泥中5种重金属的检测结果Testresultsfor5heavymetalsfromthesurfacewaterandsedimentofXintangandGurao■中国的纺织行业和潜在的污染风险ThetextileindustryinChinaanditsenvironmentalrisks■解决方案和建议Solutionsandrecommendations两个纺织专业镇概况AtourofXintangandGurao中国东南部的两个“纺织专业镇”TwotextiletownsinGuangdong练江“性感之都”谷饶Gurao,the“CapitalofSexy”谷饶镇概况GuraoProfile■总面积TotalArea:71.8km2■户籍人口Population:150,000■外来人口Migrantpop:140,000■75,000Industryworkers从业人员(25%oftotal)■3,000+relatedbusiness相关企业●占全镇企业数量比例80%ofallGuraobusinesses●1,080+factories企业●1,800+familyworkshops家庭工厂内衣行业TheLingerieIndustryinGurao谷饶镇内衣行业产量ProductionofGurao’sLingerieIndustry■胸罩约2亿多件，内衣等家居服系列约1.5亿件，内裤0.5亿件及各类针织布、经编布、花边、刺绣品3亿多米。■200millionbras■150millionothergarmentarticles■50millionarticlesofunderwearandknittedfabrics■300million+metersoflace,embroidery,andknittedfabricsIn2009年AnnualIndustryOutput:RMB3.85billion38.5亿元小的时候这条溪里可以游泳的，还有鱼，现在我的儿子不会游泳了，没有地方学，水太脏了，平时村里人碰都不会碰。——刘武生(化名),谷饶镇溪美村居民“WhenIwaslittle,wecouldswimandfishinthestream.Nowmysondoesn’tevenknowhowtoswimatall,hehasnowheretolearn.Thewateristoodirty-normallynooneinthevillageiswillingtotouchit.”-LiuWusheng(pseudonym),residentofXimeiVillage.这些水是从上游的染厂排出来的，有的时候特别臭，每次颜色还不一样，什么颜色都有。—任山（化名），贵州男工“Thewaterisdischargedfromthedyeingfactoriesupstream.Sometimesitsmellsreallyawful.Andeverytimethecolorofthewaterisdifferent–I’veseeneverycolorimaginable.”-RenShan(pseudonym),aworkerfromGuizhou中国牛仔之都新塘Xintang,the“JeansCapitalofChina”新塘镇概况XintangProfile■总面积TotalArea:251.51km2■户籍人口Population:215,000■外来人口Migrantpop:500,000+■180,000Industryworkers从业人员(25%oftotal)■4,000+relatedbusiness相关企业●占全镇企业数量比例80%ofXintangbusinesses牛仔服装行业TheJeansIndustryinXintang■2008牛仔服装产量:2.6亿2008jeansproduction:260millionpairs■年牛仔服装生产总值:287.8亿元Annualindustryoutputvalue:RMB28.78billion据当地政府统计，2008年新塘年产2.6亿多条（件）牛仔服装，占到全国牛仔服装产量的60%以上，相当于美国每年消费牛仔服装总量的40%。这里的牛仔服装产品更远销俄罗斯、美国、欧盟、香港等几十个国家和地区，占全国出口量的40%。In2008,Xintangproducedmorethan260millionpairsofjeans–equivalentto60%ofnationalproduction,or40%oftheannualU.S.consumptionofjeans.XintangjeansareexportedtotheUS,Russia,theEU,HongKong,andmanyothercountriesandregions,makingup40%ofChina’stotalexportedjeans.每天早上四点多，水退的时候，屋旁的河就变得很臭，令人想吐。——刘先生，住在坭紫村的四川男工Everydayaround4o’clockinthemorning,whenthetidegoesdown,theriverbesideourroombecausedisgustinglystinky.---Mr.Liu,aSichuanmaleworkerlivinginNiziVillage他们都说做漂染的不能生育。我有一个表兄以前在染厂里做，得胸膜炎死了。——刘志新(化名),四川人，以前在新塘镇做车衣工，现在做包装工“Everyonesaysthatpeoplewhoworkindyeingandwashinghavereproductiveandfertilityproblems.Mycousinonceworkedinadyeingplant.Hediedofpleurisy.”---LiuZhixin(pseudonym),fromSichuan,currentlyworksinpackagingbutformerlyworkedinsewing对两地地表水和底泥中重金属含量的检测TestsonheavymetalconcentrationsinsurfacewaterandsedimentfromXintangandGurao检测背景TestingBackground■为了解更多关于两地水污染的情况，并将我们所见证到的污染场景用科学的证据加以反映，绿色和平在2010年8月和10月间，委托第三方独立实验室，对新塘和谷饶两地多个地点的地表水和河流底泥中的重金属含量进行了检测。■WaterandsedimentsamplescollectedfrompointsthroughoutXintangandGuraofromAug.toOct.2010■Testsconductedbythird-partyindependentlaboratorytoensureaccuracy检测背景TestingBackground■被检测的五种重金属是铅、汞、镉、铬和铜，这些被广泛使用在包括纺织工业在内的众多工业中的重金属，都是对环境和健康存在潜在危害的有毒有害物质。同时被检测的还有作为衡量酸碱度和用于标准比对指标的pH值。■Testedforfiveheavymetals:mercury,cadmium,chromium,leadandcopper●Widelyusedbymanyindustries,includingtextiles●Hazardouschemicalswithpotentiallydetrimentalimpactsontheenvironmentandhealth.■AlsotestedthepHofthewater检测背景TestingBackground■为了解两镇水污染的普遍水平，我们在两地的河流随机选择了11个不同的地点(其中新塘镇6个,谷饶镇5个),采集了21个地表水和河流底泥的样本。■Randomsamplingof11differentsites,6inXintangand5inGurao■Didnotsamplefromindustrialdischargepipes–Sampleswerecollectedfromtheriverforamoregeneralrepresentationofthedegreeofwaterpollutioninbothtowns■Collected11watersamplesand10sedimentsamplesforatotalof21samples.检测结果TestingResults■在所有21个地表水和河流底泥样本中，有17个样本中被检出重金属的存在；在全部10个河流底泥样品中，均有重金属被检出。■Heavymetalswerefoundin17outof21waterandsedimentsamples,includinginall10sedimentsamples.检测结果XintangTestingResults■根据国家标准，在新塘3个不同地点采集的5个样本中的镉、铜、铅或pH值等指标有超标现象。■3Xintangsitescontainedheavymetals,includinglead,copperandcadmium,inexcessoflimitssetbyChina’snationalenvironmentalqualitystandardsforsoil.■InoneXintangsedimentsample,cadmiumlevelsexceededthenationalstandardby128times.检测结果XintangTestingResults■个别样本的超标现象非常严重。在新塘采集到的1个底泥样本中，重金属镉的含量是国家限值的128倍，在附近还采集到了pH值高达11.95的碱性地表水样。■In2Xintangwatersamples,pHlevelsexceededlimitssetbythenationalenvironmentalqualitystand