油包水型化妆品稳定性的研究-刘纲勇

　　:2002-03-20;:2002-07-11:(1974—),,,,2000,E-mail:[e-mail]。油包水型化妆品稳定性的研究刘纲勇(雅倩化妆品有限公司,广东　潮阳　515144):HLB、、R,、、;、。,。:;;;;;W/O:TQ658　　　:A　　　:1001-1803(2002)06-0057-03　　O/WW/O。,W/O:,;,;,W/O。W/O:,。SPF、、。,W/O,W/O。W/O[1,2],R。W/OO/W,。W/OO/W。W/O,。W/O。1　1.1　HLBHLBGriffin(hydrophile-lipophilebalance)。,HLB。HLB3～6W/O。HLB,,HLB3～6W/O,HLB。1.2　PITPIT(PhaseInversionTemperature)。--,,O/WW/O。-,PIT。W/O,PIT10℃～40℃[3]。W/O,,,。1.3　,,ν/aolc,。(ν/aolc)1,,W/O;1/3(ν/aolc)1,O/W。1.4　RR(O)、(W)(SAA)(C),:R=(ACO-AOO-ALL)/(ACW-AWW-AHH)。RSAA,,。R1O/W;R=1;R1W/O[4]。C,,C,R1,。R。ACO·57·326200212　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　日用化学工业ChinaSurfactantDetergent&Cosmetics　　　　　　　　　　　　　　Vo1.32No.6Dec.2002,,W/O,。AOO,,,。ALL。ACW。AWW。AHH。W/O,AHH,,R,。R,。W/O,ACW,ACO,ACO,。,(Aab),(Aaa,Abb)“”,Aab=AaaBbb。,,AOO,ACC-AOO0,ACO2-AOO2=ACCAOO-AOOAOO=AOO(ACC-AOO)0。,,R,。W/O[5]。R,HLB。,HLB,。W/O。2　W/O2.1　2.1.1　(1):,W/O,,。,。:。。,,,。,,、、。,、,。,,,,SPF。,,,,,。(2):,Kf[6]:Kf=4kT/3η。,kBoltzmann,T,η。,,,,。,W/O,,,。,,。:、。W/O,,。,。,,。2.1.2　(1):2%,、、,。。(2):,,。R,W/O。,。,,,AHH,R,。W/O0.5%～2%,NaCl。,,。,。2.1.3　,。,,,,;,,,。,,,。,,,,。,·58·　　　　　　　　　　　日　用　化　学　工　业　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　第32卷　,。,,。,,。2.1.4　W/O。W/O,。:。,[7]。W/O,,:AWW,,R1,O/W,。AOO,,R1,O/W。HLB3～6。,W/O,。,O/WHLBO/W,。(1)-:O/W,,,。,,45%。W/O,80%,-。,O/W[2]。(2):,,。W/O。W/O,,HLB,。W/O:①,,ν/aolc,W/O。:-3-3。AmercholGlucateDO;②。,。:UniqemaArlacelP135。(3):,PEG,。:,,。:GoldschmidtABILEM90,GEToshibaSiliconesSF1328,W/O。,,。,(W/Si)。:GEToshibaSiliconesSF1328,GoldschmidtABILEM97DowCorningDC3225。,,。2.2　W/O。:、。2.2.1　W/O,W/OO/W,。,,,[1]。,50%,,,O/W。2.2.2　W/O,,。W/O,PIT10℃～40℃。25℃。,3:/;/;/。/,。,。,。PIT,,。2.2.3　,Gibbs,1,R,,,■G,　　(下转第62页)·59·　第6期　　　　　　　　　　　:　　　　　　　　　　　　。:[1]TalmageSylivaS.Environmentalandhumansafetyofmajorsurfactant[M].BocaRaton:LewisPublishers,1994.35-36.[2],,,.[J].,2001,32(1):10-12.[3]SwisherRD.Surfactantbiodegradation(2.Ed)[M].NewYork:MarcelDekkerInc,1987.762,799,801,818,832,853.DeterminationofsurfactantbiodegradationZHAOYu-mei,QINYong,ZHANGGao-yong(ChinaResearchInstituteofDailyChemicalIndustry,Taiyuan　030001,China)Abstract:Establishingandperfectingthemethodofdeterminingdegradationextent,includingtheprocessofpreparationofactivedsludge,cultivation,domesticationanddegradationofsurfactant.Determiningseveralfamiliaranionicsurfactantandnonionicsurfactantwiththismethod.TheresultshowthatAESandC13alcoholAEO7canbedegradatedin1d,naturealcoholAOS,AEO7andTX-10in2d,SASandpolyetherin3dandLASin4d,whichareinaccordancewiththeliteratureexcel-lently.Thoseprovethereliabilityofthismethod.Thismethodhasthegoodduplicationcapabilityalso.Keywords:surfactant;biodegradation;degradationextent　　(上接第59页),R＊。,、,。图1　乳状液形成的Gibbs自由能变化　　　■G与质点大小(R)的关系Fig.1Changeinemulsificationfreeenergy　　　　responsetothesizeoftheemulsionparticle,R(RR＊),■G,,。,,■G,,R=R＊。,RR＊,。3　,W/O。W/O,。:[1]KennethAkasprzak.Emulsiontechniquesusingsiliconeformulationaids[J].Drug&Cosmeticindustry,1996(5):39-48.[2].[M].:,1997.765-928.[3].()[J].,1999(5):57-63.[4],.[M].:,1999.1-116.[5],,,./[M].:,1997.97.[6],,,.[M].:,1994.162-183.[7].()[J].,1999(4):46-51.Studyofstabilityofwater-in-oilcosmeticsLIUGang-yong(ARCHECosmeticCo.Ltd.,Chaoyang515144,China)Abstract:Thefactorsaffectstabilityofwater-in-oilemulsionweredescribedhydrophile-lipophilebalance,phaseinver-siontemperature,geometricalarraytheoryandtheRratiotheory.Somefactorsassociatewithformulaincludepolarityofoilphase,electrolytes,phaseratioandemulsifier.Theotherfactorsassociatewithprocessingincludemethodofaddingingredi-ent,emulsifyingtemperatureandparticlesizedistribution.Itwaspaperalsoprovedthatsimilaritybetweenthehydrophobicgroupofemulsifierandoilphasecanenhancethestabilityofoil-in-wateremulsion.Keywords:cosmetic;stability;formula;study;emulsifier·62·　　　　　　　　　　　日　用　化　学　工　业　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　第32卷