服装厂质量控制之铺料和裁剪程序

CUTTINGQUALITYSYSTEMDEFINITIONSMAJORFAULT:Anyfaultthatmakesthemade-uparticleB-Gradeisconsideredamajorfault.CUTFRAME:Thisisthemaximumlengthbetweentheouterdiametersofthecuttingrodsthatareplacedontheclampsofthecuttingtable,itisalsoknownasthelaylength.CUTSIZE:Thesizeofthefinishedproductinclusiveofthestitchingmarginsisknownasthecutsize.MARKING:Beforecutting,linesaredrawnonthefabricasperrequiredcutsizewithchalkthatservesastheguidelineforthecuttingpersonnel.LAYHEIGHT:Itisthemaximumallowedheightofthespread.Thisheightvariesdependingonthecuttingbehaviorofthefabric.Theallowableheightvariesbetween2”to7”.QUALITYINSPECTIONAREA:AseparateareawithD-65/TL-84lightsourceandarectangulartable(9’x4’)havingtexturedgraycolortopandadequateheightisavailableisknownasthequalityinspectionarea.L.C.R(LEFTCENTERRIGHT):Itistheshadevariationfromsidestocenterandfromsidetosideacrossthefabricwidth.CUTTINGQUALITYPROCEDURE:CuttingqualityprocedureisbasedatAQL2.5.Ifanyarticleisgoingtobecutforthefirsttimethenitsstitchingsampleismadebytheproductionsupervisoranddulysignedbythemanageroperationsandqualitycontrolmanager.Forrepeatorder,anearliersamplemaybeused,butwithfreshsignaturefromtherelevantsigningauthorities.Withthehelpofthesampleandthecontractfile,cuttingsupervisormakesthecuttingprogram.Thiscuttingprogramelaboratesthefabricwidth,cutlengthandthenumberofpiecestobecutinvarioussizes,colors&designs.Whilespreading,thefabricmustbecheckedfortaggedfaults.TheFabricSupplierdoestaggingwhere100%fabricisinspected.Basedonthenatureofthefault,thecuttingsupervisorwilldecidetoeitherremovethefaultedfabricorleaveasitis.Asarule,fabricwithmajorfaultsisremovedhere,ifitcannotbeutilizedinasmallerproduct.Decisionsregardingcutframe,cutsize,marking,layheight,piecesinthelay,etc.aremadebythecuttingsupervisor.Thesearetobedouble-checkedbythecuttingQCinspector,accordingtotheQCprocedureandrecordedonprescribedformat.TextileLinksandControlscuttingqualityformat.EverycutfabricspreadmustbecheckedaccordingtoAQL2.5atthecuttinginspectiontable.Thecuttingqualityinspectorwilldrawasampleofsevenpiecesfromthelayer(uptomaxof180cuttingspread),andtakethosepiecestohisinspectionarea.Hewillcheckthepiecesforsize,fabricfaults,Jaggedcutting,straightnessandshadingfaultsaccordingtotheprescribedformat.Ifthefabric/cuttingqualitydoesnotqualifythencuttingpersonnelwillsortouttheOKpieces&rectifythecuttingfaults.Thecuttingqualityinspectorwillre-sampletheOKlotandwillrecordhisfindingsinthecuttingqualityformat.Asamatterofprinciplebigsizeitemsaretakenfirst,sothatifthereisanyrejectioninthebigsize,smallerproductsmaybetakenoutfromtherejectedlot.TOOLS/EQUIPMENTOFCUTTINGQUALITYINSPECTOR:Thecuttingqualityinspectormusthavethefollowingfacilities/equipmentsingoodworkingcondition.1.InspectiontablewithproperlightsasmentionedaboveintheQUALITYINSPECTIONAREA.2.Measuringtape.3.Stickersormaskingtapetoidentifythefaults.4.Stitchedandsignedsampleforreference.5.Writtencuttingqualitystandards.6.TextileLinksandControlscuttingqualityformtorecordthedata.ELIGIBILITYCRITERAFORTHEQUALITYINSPECTOR:1.ThepersonmustbeatleastGraduate.2.Heorshemusthaveaminimumoftwoyearexperienceinthetextileindustry.3.Heorshemustbewellversedwiththecuttingqualitysystems.4.Heorshemustbeactiveandphysicallyfit.5.Heorshemustnotbecolorblind.***End***