the Chinese clothing culture

Blouse襦Skirt裙Straight-collar对襟Crossed-collar交领Pipasleeves琵琶袖ThegoldenageExposingtheskinTheimprovementofthewomen’ssocialstatusApersonratherthanatoolorapossessionTheroyalfamilyArelativetolerancetothewomenShenyi•Whatisshenyi?•Whatareitsspecifiedfeatures?yishang上衣下裳Shenyi上衣下裳连体直裾曲裾shenyiwithstraighttrain直裾深衣shenyiwithcurvingtrain曲裾深衣Culturalfeatures1.practicalvalue2.culturalvalue(hierarchy)3.aestheticvalue（美学价值）practicalvalue•forbothmenandwomen•Forallkindsofpeople，youngandoldculturalvalue•uniformforhigh-classcitizens•formalattireforcommonpeople•Chinese–stylecharacter:reserved&closed•profoundimplicationaestheticvaluecontradiction&unificationOpen,frank,exposed,explicated,modernReserved,tight,implicatedEasterncountriesWesterncountriesAncientclothingCheongsam•Origin•Structure•Comparison•CultureOriginstructurefrogLapel/frontofagarmentOpeningsmandarincollarstructurefrogThe3distinctionsbetweenQingDynastyandtheRepublicofChina⑴Qing:broad,flat,longtofeet,silkRep:shapedwaist⑵Qing:wearingslacks,seethebottomoftrousersfromtheopeningRep:wearingsilkstockings,showthelegs⑶Qing:oftenusebrocade(织锦)orjacquard(提花织物)Rep:printedfabric(印花织物),simplicityCulture•Emphasizetextandneglecthumannature.重文本，轻人本。•ThecombinationofManchuandtheHannationality.满汉融合。•Cannotationandmoderation.含蓄中庸。•Theharmonybetweennatureandthepeople.天人合一。•ThecombinationofChinesecultureandWesternculture.中西融合。TheoriginationofChinesesilkThestorieslyinginthesilkThedevelopmentinthewesternworldAmovingstory:4,000yearsago;YellowEmperor;agirlfromtheheaven;“Goddessofsilkworm”Manufacturingoperation:reeledfromseveralcocoonstogether;tokeepthethreadintact;killthemothbeforeitsmaturity;feedmulberryleaves;flexible,elastic,tenacious《诗经》氓之蚩蚩，抱布贸丝；匪来贸丝，来即我谋。春三月，茶发茶，柳发青，青蛙蛙叫唤，猫叫春，山上石头山下滚，我姑娘一十六岁坐绣楼，可想书生？---（SuZhouballad）花谢花飞飞满天，红酒香断有谁怜？游丝软系飘春榭，落絮轻话扑锈带。---林黛玉Silkfabricshaveplayedanimportantrolereachedthewesternworldalongalong,time-honoredmerchantrouteandthesilkroadNowadays,twofactors:theever-changingfashion,thecontradictionsbetweenthetextileindustryandthecocoonproductionThedresscodeinChinaThesepicturesarefromtheteleplayThelegendofZhenHuanTheyellowcolorcanonlybeusedbytheemperor,theprinceandtheempressdowagerTheemperorTheprinceTheempressdowagerInQingdynastythegreencolorrepresentlowlinessDearmyfellows,nowdoyouknowwhyatthebeginningIsaidthattherearesomemistakesaboutthedressofthehighest-rankingimperialconcubineNowletuslookbacktothepictureYellow--respected,importantGreen--greathearted,active,lowlyRed—willpower,passionTHEEND