Title:ChineseancientgarmentKeywords:•Towfundamentalstyles(两种基本风格)•Evolution(发展)•Traits(特征)StructureIntroduction-TwofundamentalstylesTheYi(shirt)andShang(skirt)system(上衣下裳制Sewn-upsystem(衣裳连属制)Histroy-EvolutionXiaShangandZhouTheSpringandAutumnPeriodandTheWarringStatesQinDynastyandHanDynastyTangDynastySongDynastyYuanDynastyMingDynastyQingDynastyChina,knownasalandofdresses,hasalonghistoryinthedevelopmentofitsclothingculture.Dressesindifferentperiodsreflect,toacertainextent,thesituationofthepolitics,economy,militaryaffairs,religions,andthecivilcustomsofthespecifichistoricalstages.中国,被称为“衣服土地”的地方,在服装文化发展上有着悠久的历史。不同时期的衣服在一定程度上放映了政治、经济、军事、宗教和特定的历史阶段的民间习俗的情况。TheYi(shirt)andShang(skirt)system(上衣下裳制)Thisistheearlieststyleofourcostumesystem,itstemmedfromtheera(时代)ofHuangdi,whichhasagreatimpactonourmodernlife.这是最早的衣服风格,它始于皇帝时代,上衣下裳制最现代生活有很重要的影响。Sewn-upsystem(衣裳连属制)Alsocalledshenyi,atypeofHanChineseclothingcommonlywornfromofthepre-shangperiodstotheHanDynasty.Theyiandshangoftheshangyiissewn(缝纫,原形:sew)together.Theformofshenyihasagreatinfluencetothelatecostume,eventoourtoday‘sdress,suchasone-piecedress(连衣裙).也叫深衣,是起源于汉代的汉族服饰,衣与裳缝合在一起,对当今的穿衣风格有很大的影响,可以说是当今连衣裙的雏形。XiaShangandZhouIntheseperiods,thewearingofpeopleobeyedtheYiandShangsystem.ShenyisystemstartedfromZhouPeriod.Thesetwosystemshadadeepinfluenceonlaterages.这一时期,人们的穿衣风格遵循上衣下裳制。深衣制度始于周朝。这二者对后世影响很深。TheSpringandAutumnPeriodandTheWarringStatesTheoccurrenceofHufuandtheprevalence(流行)ofshenyiarethemostimportantchangeincostume.WarsinthespringandautumnperiodpromotedtheevolutionofHancostume‘sbroadshirt,longskirtandtunic(长袍).WulingKingofZhaostateintroducedHufuintoCentralPlain(中原),thiswasthefirstcostumeevolutioninhistory.Hufuisthegarments(衣服)wornbyTartarsorthosewholivedintheWesternRegions.itconsistedofnarrowsleevedshirt,longtrousersandboot.这一时期穿衣风格多为胡服和深衣,而胡服更为流行,由于这一时期战争较多,胡服和深衣宽松较长,便于骑马打仗,因而在当时较为流行。战国时期服饰Fromthemoviethewarringstates来源于电影《战国》QinDynastyandHanDynastyInQinDynasty,mianfu(冕服)andshenyi(深衣)areverypopular.China‘scompletecodeofcostumeandtrappingswasestablishedintheHanDynasty.ThecostumecodeoftheWesternHanDynastyfollowedtheoneestablishedintheQinDynasty.IntheEasternHanDynasty,peopleinblackhadtowearpurplesilkadornments(装饰品)tomatchtheirclothes.TheWesternHanDynastyimplemented(实施)theShenyisystem。秦朝时期,冕衣和深衣盛行汉代是我国古代服饰的定型阶段。西汉的穿衣风格沿袭了秦朝,并确立了衣裳连属制,即深衣制。而在东汉时期,贵族则开始穿蚕丝衣服,自此以后,蚕丝衣服在贵族中流行起来。秦朝服饰FromthemovieHongMenYan来源于电影《鸿门宴》11TangDynastyFromSuiDynastytoTangDynasty,theancientChinesegarment(服装)developedtoitspeak(顶峰),thepoliticalstabilityandeconomicdevelopment,manufacturing(制造)andtextile(纺织)technology,thefrequentforeignrelations,contributingtothedevelopmentofclothing.Bold大胆Colorful绚丽多彩Manystyles款式多样Sexy性感唐朝服饰FromTVseriesEstablishedTotem来源于电视剧《凰图腾》SongDynastyNorthSongDynastythelargetracts(大片土地)oflandintoJurchen(女真人)aristocracy(贵族)territory(领土),Chineseancientclothingbutalsobecauseofthepoliticalandeconomicfactorsintheinteractionof.ContinuedRestructure(续资治通鉴)records:Ling'an'scustom,sincemorethanadecade,costumechaosoften,usedtopack......“VisibleinSouthernSongDynastyisalsonorthofkyoto(京都).TheSongdynastywomen‘sdresseveryday,mostlyonthewearingcoat,sweater,rather,backson,halfarm,groinbeamskirt,pants.Itsfabric(织物),yarn(纱),silk,brocade(织锦),damask(缎).Especiallycontroversialstyleofdress,itstexture(纹理)toseeLuoyarn,colorsbypomegranate(石榴)redmostattention.Pleatedskirtisalsothetimetodressinacharacteristic,six,eight,twelve,aristocraticwomenwithskirtpleatedmore.宋代北方大片土地沦为女真族贵族统治领地,中国古代服饰也因其政治和经济因素而发生交互影响。《续资治通鉴》记载:“临安府风俗,自十数年来,服饰乱常,习为边装……”可见南宋京都也尚北服。宋代妇女的日常服饰,大多上身穿袄、襦、衫、背子、半臂,下身束裙子、裤。其面料为罗、纱、锦、绫、绢。尤其是裙子颇具风格,其质地多见罗纱,颜色中以石榴花的红色最注目。褶裥裙也是当时裙子中有特点的一种,有六幅、八幅、十二幅不等,贵族妇女着裙的褶裥更多。宋朝服饰FromTVseriesTheLegendofSwordandFairy来源于电视剧《仙剑奇侠传》YuanDynastyTheYuanDynastywasrulingtheMongoliaNationalityenteringtheeraofCentralPlains.AtthetimeOfancientChinesecostumeisXiHansystem,andcarryouttheirnativesystem.BuiltatthebeginningofYuanDynasty,alsohadtobecutinBeijingShiShuastheMongolianationalminoritycostume.MongoliaMongoliandresses,withheadbandhathat,menwearingearrings.ButtoDademillionyearslater.Mongolian,Han'sscholarclotheswillbedifferentfrom.Women‘sapparel(服装),andmoretomartenclothing,withcap.Generalusesheepskinandvellusfeltindressmaterial.Atthetimeoftherobetypeofwideandlong,oftendressin.Attheendoftheyuan,forthenoblefamilytoKoreamen‘sclothingfortheUnitedStates,andthepopularclothes,shoes,hatFauxKoreastyle(仿高丽式样).元代是蒙古族入关统治中原的时代。其时中国古代服饰既袭汉制,又推行其本族制度。元朝初建,也曾令在京士庶须剃发为蒙古族装束。蒙古族的衣冠,以头带帽笠为主,男子多带耳环。然至元大德年间以后。蒙、汉间的士人之服也就各从其便了。妇女服饰,富贵者多以貂鼠为衣,带皮帽。一般则用羊皮和毳毡作衣冠材料。当时的袍式宽大而长,常作礼服之用。元末,因贵族人家以高丽男子女子的装束为美,又流行起衣服、靴、帽仿高丽式样。MingDynastyThecostumeinMingDynastybasicallyfollowedthestyleofTangandSongDynasties,butthereweresomedifferencesinsizesofshirtandskirt.Narrowsleevedshirt,longskirtandmanteau(披风)prevailed(得胜)intheearlyyearsofMingDynasty.BroadLongsleevedshirtandshortskirtprevailedinthemiddleyearsofMingDynasty.WhileinthelateofMingDynasty,thenarrowlongsleevedshirtwaspopularwithwomen.Thestyleofthecostumeweretheimitationofthedressofcocotte(妓女),whichtraitswerepla