【葡萄酒的品尝】

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WINETASTING:AProfessionalHandbookFoodScienceandTechnologyInternationalSeriesSeriesEditorSteveL.TaylorUniversityofNebraskaAdvisoryBoardBruceChassyUniversityofIllinois,USAPatrickFoxUniversityCollegeCork,RepublicofIrelandDennisGordonNorthDakotaStateUniversity,USARobertHutkinsUniversityofNebraska,USARonaldJacksonQuebec,CanadaDarylB.LundCornellUniversity,USAConnieWeaverPurdueUniversity,USALouiseWickerUniversityofGeorgia,USAHowardZhangOhioStateUniversity,USAAcompletelistofbooksinthisseriesappearsattheendofthisvolume.WineTasting:AProfessionalHandbookRonaldS.JacksonAMSTERDAMBOSTONHEIDELBERGLONDONNEWYORKOXFORDPARISSANDIEGOSANFRANCISCOSINGAPORESYDNEYTOKYOThisbookisprintedonacid-freepaper.Copyright©2002,ElsevierLtd.AllrightsreservedNopartofthispublicationmaybereproduced,storedinaretrievalsystem,ortransmittedinanyformorbyanymeanselectronic,mechanical,photocopying,recordingorotherwise,withoutthepriorwrittenpermissionofthepublisher.PermissionsmaybesoughtdirectlyfromElsevier’sScience&TechnologyRightsDepartmentinOxford,UK:phone:(44)1865843830,fax:(44)1865853333,e-mail:permissions@elsevier.co.uk.Youmayalsocompleteyourrequeston-lineviatheElsevierhomepage(),byselecting‘CustomerSupport’andthen‘ObtainingPermissions’.ElsevierAcademicPress525BStreet,Suite1900,SanDiego,California92101-4495,USA’sRoad,LondonWC1X8RR,UK–12–379076–XTypesetbyJ&LComposition,Filey,UKPrintedandboundinHongKongbyRDC0304050607089AbouttheauthorRonaldS.Jacksonreceivedhisbachelor’sandmaster’sdegreesfromQueen’sUniversity,anddoctoratefromtheUniversityofToronto.HissabbaticalatCornellUniversityredirectedhisacademicinteresttowardviticultureandenology.WhileProfessorandchairofBotanyDepartment,BrandonUniversity,hedevelopedthefirstwinetechnologycourseinCanada.FormanyyearshewasatechnicaladvisortotheManitobaLiquorControlCommission,developingsensoryevaluationteststotrainandassessmembersofitsSensoryPanel.HewasalsoalongtimememberoftheMLCCExternalTastingPanel.Inadditiontopreparingthisbook,heisauthorofWineScience:Principles,Practice,Perception,2e(2000),ConserveWaterDrinkWine(1997)andseveraltechnicalreviews,includingGrape-basedFermenta-tionProductsinBiotechnology:FoodFermentation(1999)andModernBiotechnol-ogyofWinemakinginWine:AScientificEvaluation(2002)andarticlesintheEncyclopediaeofAgriculturalScienceandFoodSciencesandNutrition.Dr.Jacksonhasretiredfromteachingtodevotehistimetowriting,butisalliedwiththeCoolClimateOenologyandViticultureInstitute,BrockUniversity.Forquestionsorsuggestions,hemaybereachedatjackson@globetrotter.net.ThisPageIntentionallyLeftBlankPrefaceThetextpresentsthepracticeofcriticalwinetasting,inthecontextofhumansen-soryperception.Thus,itattemptstodifferentiatebetweenperception(thehumanresponsetosensation)andsensationitself.Trainingandexperienceareusuallyrequiredtoseparateone’ssubjectiveresponsefromobjectiveevaluation.Thetechniquesdescribedareprimarilydesignedforthoseinvolvedinwinetast-ings(judgingrelativequalityorconformitytotraditionalvarietalorregionalstyles).Theseskillsarerequirednotonlyforprofessionalwineevaluation,butalsosuccess-fulwinemaking.Althoughanalytic,theseprocedurescanbeadaptedbytherestau-ranteurorwinemerchant,aswellasindividualsdesiringtofullyappreciateawine’ssensoryattributes.Thereaderisfirstguidedthroughthestepsoftastingwine.Subsequently,thepsycho-physicalandneuroanatomicalaspectsofsensoryresponsearediscussed.Thisisfollowedbyadiscussionoftheoptimalconditionsforwineassessmentandevaluation,theselectionandtrainingofjudgingability,preparingvarioustypesoftastingsandtheanalysisofsignificance.Wineclassificationandtheoriginsofwinequalityarecoveredwithabriefdiscussionofwhatcanconfidentlybesaidaboutwineandfoodcombination.ReferencesarelargelylimitedtothemostrecentdatawhereasSuggestedReadingprimarilycoversmajorreferencetexts.R.S.JacksonThisPageIntentionallyLeftBlankAcknowledgmentsIshouldliketoexpressmyappreciationtothoseinnumerableresearcherswhohavededicatedtheirlivestounravelingthemysteriesofhumansensoryacuityandthecomplexitiesofwineperception.Imustalsothankmystudents,participantsofsensorypaneltests,andcompa-triotsontheExternalTastingPanel,andespeciallyAndyTekauz,fortheirinsightsandviewsonwinequality.ItisalsoessentialtoexpressmyappreciationfortheassistanceprovidedbystaffatAcademicPress,notablySaraGorman.Theirhelpandencouragementhavehelpedbringthisbooktocompletion.Finally,butnotleast,mythanksmustgotomywifewhohasagainsufferedfromtheauthor’swidowsyndrome.DedicationTothemembersoftheManitobaLiquorControlCommission.ThisPageIntentionallyLeftBlankContentsAbouttheauthor.......................................vPreface..............................................viiAcknowledgements......................................ix1Introduction........................................1Tastingprocess.......................................1Ap

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