动物性原料成分在护肤品中的应用

:2005-06-02;:2005-09-11:(20020842);(2003C20506):(1982-),,,,E-mail:xiangwanzi2003@1631com,:13533845658动物性原料成分在护肤品中的应用向智男,宁正祥(华南理工大学轻工与食品学院,广东广州510640):,()/;,:;;:TQ65812:A:1001-1803(2006)01-0038-04,()(),,,,,,,,,,[1]1,;;();[2](,),1()2211,,,,,(NMF),10%~20%,1Tab11Classificationofanimalmaterialsandtheirextractsusedinskin-protectingcosmetics()()(),[3],#38#36120062日用化学工业ChinaSurfactantDetergent&CosmeticsVol.36No.1Feb12006[4](HA)Meyer1934[5]HA,,[6,7]HA,HA,,,,HA,,,,,/0,[8]212,,(),,()();,3,101610(EGF)SODX[9],,,,,,,[10],,,á,[11,12],,,,,5000D,,,,213(),;,,,,,,,;,,,;,[13],,,214,,:,,:(Propolis),,,,/0,#39#1:,,,[14],,70%/0/0:,AB10--2-,;,;,213%,[15],,215,,75%[16],,,216,,6615%,,217,,,))),))):1),,,,2),,,,3),()4)[17],,,1@10-7%~118@10-3%(N-),)))N-,,[18,19],,,,1/2,,,,,,;,,;E,,218,,,,,,,70%~75%21%~23%,,80%,,,[20],#40#日用化学工业36,,,,,[21],,219/,;,/,,,,,,/,,,,,[22]2110,/0,10%,,,/0/0/0/03,,[23],,,,,,,,:[1].[A].()[C].:,2003:200-206.[2],.[J].,2002,31(1):28-31.[3]YOUNGSC,SUNGRH,YOUNGML,etal.Studyongelatin-con-tainingartificialskin[J].Biomaterials,1999,20:409-417.[4]MALIE,GAOCHANGYOU,MAOZHENGWEI,etal.Collagen/ch-itosanporousscaffoldswithimprovedbiostabilityforskintissueengineering[J].Biomaterials,2003,24:4833-4841.[5]LAURENTTC,FRASERJRE.Hyaluronan[J].FASEBJ,1992,2(6):2397-2404.[6],.[J].,.,1999(5):28.[7].[N].,2002-12-20(2).[8].[J].,1997(2):9-11.[9]SIMOESSI,DELGADOTC,LOPESRM,etal.Developmentsintheratadjuvantarthritismodelanditsuseintherapeuticevaluationofnovelnon-invasivetreatmentbySODintransfersomes[J].JournalofControlledRelease,2005,103:419-434.[10]WYNNPC,BROWNG,MOOREGPM,etal.Characterizationanddistributionofepidermalgrowthfactorreceptorsintheskinandwoolfoll-iclesofthesheepfetusduringdevelopment[J].DomesticAnimalEn-docrinology,1995(12):269-281.[11]GREENWALDI,RUBINGM.Makingadifference:theroleofcell-cellinteractionsinestablishingseparateidentitiesforequivalentcells[J].Cell,1992(68):271-281.[12],,,.[J].,1998(1):12-13.[13].[J].,1996(7):15-16.[14].[J].,2004(6):25-26.[15],,.[J].,2001(6):24-25.[16]DESHPANDEM,DANIELSL.Evaluationofsophorolipidbiosurfactantproductionbycandidabombicolausinganimalfat[J].BioresourceTech-nology,1995,54:143-150.[17],,.K*1p3CTN:18[M].:CT,1994:81[18],.(SpleenExtract))[J].,1994(4):14-17.[19]BRENTJA,RUMACKBH.Thepreparationofnutrientsolutionofspleenextractanditsapplications[J].ClinicalToxicology,1993,31(1):139-141.[20]SHELDONRC,MARKARANDOLPH,ANDREWWP.Skinallograftsurvivalfollowingintrathymicinjectionofdonorbonemarrow[J].JournalofSurgicalResearch,1999,85:204-208.[21],,.[J].,2003(3):36-38.[22].[M].2.:,1994:293.[23]STEMBERGERA,ASCHERLR,SCHERERM,etal.Experienceswithcollagen-derivedbiomaterialsinresearchandtreatmentofhumans[J].MaterialsScienceandEngineering,2002,66:397-398.(下转第45页)#41#1:[6],.[J].,1994(4):27-30.[7],.[J].,2002(3):39-41.[8].[P].CN:03114288.5,2003-04-23.[9],,,.[J].,2002,32(5):47-50.[10],,.[M].:,2003:11-18.[11]POLONASPICLIN,MIHAHOMAR,ANDREJAZUPANCIC-VALANT,etal.Sodiumascorbylphosphateintopicalmicroemulsions[J].Interna-tionalJournalofPharmaceutics,2003(256):65-73.[12]HAGENTROMMER,REINHARDHHNEUBERT.Theexaminationofpolysaccharidesaspotentialantioxidativecompoundsfortopicaladministra-tionusingalipidmodelsystem[J].InternationalJournalofPharmaceu-tics,2005(298):153-163.[13]ANGELAUGUSTOGUERRERO,HUNTINGTON,CONN.Emulsifyingsystemforawhiteningcosmeticcomposition[P].US:833179,1997-04-04.[14]COLLINNATHALIE,BICHONYOHANN,PAYSKARL.Eyeshadowcontainingxanthangumandmixedsilicate[P].JP:2003212725,2003-07-30.[15],.[J].,1999(4):58-60.[16]PATRICKCMCCALL.Antidandruffshampoocompositionscontainingamagnesiumaluminumsilicate-xanthangumsuspensionsystem[P].US:4927563,1990-05-22.[17]RAYMONDEBOLICH,MAINEVILLEJR,THERESABWILLIAMS.Shampoocompositionscontainingnonvolatilesiliconeandxanthangum[P].US:4788006,1988-12-29.[18]HONGJIECAO,GARYTMARTINO,PAULHRICHARDSON.Useofxanthangumasahairfixative[P].US:20030143179A1,2003-07-21.[19]XUGUIYING,ZHANGLI,YANGYANLIAN,etal.Fluorescencepropertyonsolutionsofzwitterionicsurfactanttetradecylbetaineinthepres-enceofmacromolecules[J].SpectrochimicaActaPartA,2000(56):2431-2437.[20]REGISLYSY,MARCHALMAURICE.Thickenedacidmicroemulsioncomposition[P].EP:589761,1994-03-30.[21]BAHARYWILLIAMSHARUL,HOGANMICHAELPATRICK.Liquiddetergentcompositioncontainingbiodegradablestructurant[P].EP:596550,1994-05-11.[22]KAOCORP.Detergentcompositionscontainingliquidorganicfluorinecompounds[P].JP:92-164015,1992-06-09.[23]ANILLACHKE.Xanthan-aversatilegum[J].Resonance,2004(10):25-33[24].[M].:,1999:305-306.[25],,.[J].,2003(3):82-85.[26]BARBARAKATZBAUER.Propertiesandapplicationsofxanthangum[J].PolymerDegradationandStability,1998(59):81-84.[27],.[J].,2000,21(1):79-83.[28].[J].,1994(5):49-51.[29].[J].,1994(4):11-15.[30]KOSEKK.Oily-watercosmeticemulsionscontaininggumandL-car-rageenan[P].JP:92-279509,1992-10-10.StructureperformanceandapplicationsofxanthangumGUORui1,2,DINGEn-yong1(1.KeyLaboratoryofCelluloseandLignocellulosicsChemistry,GuangzhouInstituteofChemistry,ChineseAcademyofSciences,Guangzhou510650,China;2.GraduateSchooloftheChineseAcademyofSciences,Beiji