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針車鞋面STITCHUPPER1.針車部門的任務是:把裁斷好的鞋面各配件依照量產操作說明書指示操作標准及流程針車組合成鞋面,在針車過程中加貼補強,以增加某些部位的拉力及防止縐折或塌陷等等.ItisthetaskofstitchingdepartmenttostitchthecomponentscutbycuttingdepartmentintoupperaccordingtotheSOP&procedureindicatedtheproductionoperationmanualincludingaddingsomereinforcementsonsomeareatostrengthen&preventfromwrinklingorcollapsingetc.2.為提高生產效率,針車操作流程一定要合理,順暢.Inordertoadvanceproductionefficiency,makesuretheprocedurelogicalandsmooth.3.必須注意針車的邊距/行距/針距/所用針的大小及種類/用線的規格及種類必須正確.Mustmakesurethestitchingmargin&rowdistance&howmanystitchingperinch/spec&kindofneedleorthreadproper.4.操作時,必須依照印刷線或記號點作業,針車線路要順,松緊適度.Duringoperating,stitchingmustfollowuptheprintlineornickmarktomakesurethestitchinglinesmooth&thethreadmoderate.車鞋舌布標STITCHTONGUELABEL1,使用平車,用14#的針.針距:9針/英寸,邊距:1.5mmUsetheflatbedsewingmachinetostitchwith9needlesperinch&1.5mmmargin.2,針車時按印刷線車,不可移位Stitchfollowingtheprintinglineandmakesurenotmoveoffitduringstitching.3.車時邊距大小要均勻.Stitchingthemarginshouldbeconsistent.4.注:真皮用劍尾針﹐反毛皮,綱布,假皮等用圓頭針。Note:Commonlystitchrealleatherwitharrowneedle&stitchsuede&mesh&syntheticwithroundtipneedle.AppliedTooling:剪刀Scissors針距板Measurestitchdistanceboard平車FlatbedsewingM/C車線Thread針Needle1,使用平車,用14#的針.針距:9針/英寸,邊距:2mmUsetheflatbedsewingmachinetostitchwith9needlesperinch&2mmmargin.2,反接邊距一致且平順,特別是在轉彎處Themarginshouldbeconsistent&smooth,especiallyonthecornerportion.3.按記號點車高低要一致﹐不可車錯方向。Tostitchshouldfollowthemark,notallowtostitchfromwrongdirection.鞋舌與鞋舌內里反接STITCHTONGUE&TONLINGAppliedTooling:剪刀Scissors針距板Measurestitchdistanceboard車線Thread針Needle平車FlatbedsewingM/C1.鞋舌背面上緣刷膠10mm寬,用766N黃膠.注意刷膠要均勻,不能積膠或膠水外溢.Cementthetogedge10mmwidthofbackoftonguewith766Nyellowglue.Andmakesuretocementevenly,don’tallowthegluetoomuchoroverflow.2,鞋舌內里外翻3mm要標准,平順.特別是轉彎處,型狀要翻出來.Duringoverturnthetonguelining,makesureitexposed3.0mmconsistent&smooth.Especiallyonthecornerportion,theshapeshouldbecorrect.3.捶平鞋舌邊緣.Hammerthetopedgeoftongueafteroverturnthelining.翻鞋舌內里OVERTURNTONGUELININGAppliedTooling:翻刀Supporterforoverturningthelining翻鞋舌內里鞋舌上緣捶平車鞋舌封邊及車防偽標STITCHINGTONGUEEDGE&SECURITYLABEL1,使用平車,用14#的針.針距:9針/英寸,邊距:2mmUsetheflatbedsewingmachinetostitchwith9needlesperinch&2mmmargin.2,防偽標與SIZE標的位置必須正確:A.均車在右腳內腰B.其在鞋舌上位置分為兩種:一是車在鞋舌邊緣,一是車在鞋舌中間.通常將布標車在鞋舌中間防偽標對折車平齊布標上的SIZE方格線,只有當鞋舌內里較小或鞋舌上有布耳時,將其車在鞋舌邊緣指定位置,防偽標對折平齊布標上第一個英文字母.Makesurethepositionofsizelabel&securitylabelcorrect:A.Stitchthebothontongueonthemedialsideofrightfoot.B.ForPumashoes,therearetwoconstructiontostitchthem:oneistostitchontongueedge,anotheroneistostitchonthecenteroftongue.Commonlyputthesecuritylabelbetweentongueliningandsizelabel&makeitalignthesizelineofsizelabel,thenstitchwiththesizelabelonthecenteroftongue.Onlywhenthetongueliningisshortorhavetongueloop,needstitchthemonthetongueedge,putthesecuritysizetoalignthefirstEnglishletterofsizelabel,thenputthemtogetherbetweentongueandtongueliningaspertheindicatedmark,atlaststitchtongueedgewiththem.鞋舌下緣鎖千鳥STITCHTONGUELOWERWITHZIGZAG備注:為了避免須邊或鞋舌泡棉黃變,鞋舌下緣需鎖千鳥.Remark:Stitchthetongueedgejustinordertoavoidedgefrombreakingandpreventthetonguepaddingfromyellowing.1,使用千鳥車,用16#的針.針距:7針/英寸,邊距:2.5mmUsethezigzagmachinetostitchwith7needlesperinch&2.5mmmargin.2.千鳥不能有落馬和寬窄不一致及重疊的現象.Tostitchzigzagshouldbeconsistent&complete&smooth,notallowtooverlapandjumpstitching.3.千烏起收針位置要倒3-4針.Needbackstitch3-4stitchesonthestart&stopstitchingportion.4.注:真皮用劍尾針﹐反毛皮,綱布,假皮等用圓頭針。Note:Commonlystitchrealleatherwitharrowneedle&stitchsuede&mesh&syntheticwithroundtipneedle.AppliedTooling:剪刀Scissors針距板Measurestitchdistanceboard車線Thread針Needle平車FlatbedsewingM/C貼后助補強ATTACHEHEELCAPREINF1,后助及后助補強刷膠,用766N黃膠.Cementtheheelcap&heelcapreinfwith766Nyellowglue.2,刷膠要到位,但不能過多積膠.Shouldcementcompletely,butdon’tcementtoomuch.3按印刷線貼補強.Attachthereinforcementaspertheprintingline.AppliedTooling:膠壺Gluepot后助擦膠后助補強擦膠貼補強鞋身與鞋身接片鎖千鳥STITCHZIGZAGQTR&QTREXTENSION1,使用千鳥車,用16#的針.針距:7針/英寸,邊距:2.5mmUsethezigzagmachinetostitchwith7needlesperinch&2.5mmmargin.2.千鳥不能有落馬和寬窄不一致及重疊的現象.Tostitchzigzagshouldbeconsistent&complete&smooth,notallowtooverlapandjumpstitching.3.千烏起收針位置要倒3-4針.Needbackstitch3-4stitchesonthestart&stopstitchingportion.4.注:真皮用劍尾針﹐反毛皮,綱布,假皮等用圓頭針。Note:Commonlystitchrealleatherwitharrowneedle&stitchsuede&mesh&syntheticwithroundtipneedle.AppliedTooling:剪刀Scissors針距板Measurestitchdistanceboard車線Thread針Needle平車FlatbedsewingM/C鞋面與鞋身鎖千鳥STITCHZIGZAGVAMP&QTR1,使用千鳥車,用16#的針.針距:7針/英寸,邊距:2.5mmUsethezigzagmachinetostitchwith7needlesperinch&2.5mmmargin.2.千鳥不能有落馬和寬窄不一致及重疊的現象.Tostitchzigzagshouldbeconsistent&complete&smooth,notallowtooverlapandjumpstitching.3.千烏起收針位置要倒3-4針.Needbackstitch3-4stitchesonthestart&stopstitchingportion.4.注:真皮用劍尾針﹐反毛皮,綱布,假皮等用圓頭針。Note:Commonlystitchrealleatherwitharrowneedle&stitchsuede&mesh&syntheticwithroundtipneedle.AppliedTooling:剪刀Scissors針距板Measurestitchdistanceboard車線Thread針Needle平車FlatbedsewingM/C后助與滾口鎖千鳥STITCHZIGZAGHEELCAP&COLLAR1,使用千鳥車,用16#的針.針距:7針/英寸,邊距:2.5mmUsethezigzagmachinetostitchwith7needlesperinch&2.5mmmargin.2.千鳥不能有落馬和寬窄不一致及重疊的現象.Tostitchzigzagshouldbeconsistent&complete&smooth,notallowtooverlapandjumpstitching.3.千烏起收針位置要倒