纺织导论

编著：顾平杨旭红马建兴林红王家俊邢铁玲配音：Mr.DavidJ.HognessIntroductiontoTextiles纺织导论主编：顾平Content/内容CHAPTER1WHYSTUDYTEXTILES/为什么学习纺织品CHAPTER2TEXTILEFIBERS/纺织纤维CHAPTER3TEXTILEYARNS/纺织纱线CHAPTER4WEAVINGANDWOVENFABRICS/机织与机织物CHAPTER5KNITTINGANDKNITFABRICS/针织与针织物Content/内容CHAPTER6NONWEAVINGANDNONWOVENFABRICS/非织造与非织造织物CHAPTER7OTHERFABRICCONSTRUCTIONPROCESSES/织物的其他构成方法CHAPTER8TEXTILEDYEINGANDFINISHING/纺织品染色和整理CHAPTER9TEXTILETESTINGANDCARE/纺织品测试与保养APPENDIXES/附录CHAPTER1WHYSTUDYTEXTILES/为什么学习纺织品Textileshavesuchanimportantbearingonourdailylivesthateveryoneneedstoknowsomethingaboutthem.Today,textilesarestillusedforcovering,warmth,personaladornment,andeventodisplaypersonalwealthandeveryoneisanultimateconsumer.Includedamongconsumersaremerchandisersofmanytypes,fromthewholesaletextilemanufacturerandmerchanttothesalesforceinanyretail-store.Manyindustries,suchastheauto-mobileindustry,areimportantconsumersoftextilesinvariousforms.Someotherconsumersarehomemakers,dressmakers,interiordecorators,andretail-storecustomers,aswellasstudentswhoarestudyingfortheseandvariousotheroccupationsandprofessionsinwhichknowledgeoftextilesisofmajorimportance.1.1.2RangesofTextileIndustry/纺织工业的领域Thetextileindustryisverycomplex.Atthispoint,onlyanintroductioncanbegivensoastoprovideabriefoverviewforsomeinsight.Itbeginsinagriculturewithfiberproductionofcotton,flax,andotherfibrousplants;inhusbandryofsheep,otheranimals,andsilkworms;inminingofmetalsandminerals;inforestryforwood;inchemicalresearchandproductionofsynthetics.Thesefibersmaybeshortorlong,fineorcoarse,softorstiff,smoothorrough,andareprocessedintoyarnsand/orfabrics.Usually,however,thefibersareinitiallyformedintoyarns.Theseyarnsmaybesimpleorcomplex,singleorply,smoothorrough,highlytwistedorlooselytwisted.Theyarnsarethenmadeintofabricsbyvariousmethods,suchasweaving,knitting,nonwovenprocessing,braiding,orknotting.Opportunitiesforcareersintextiles/纺织就业面Theindustryinvolvesfiberproducers―growersormanufacturers;fabricmanufacturers;converters―thosewhofinishandcolorfabrics;designers―thosewhodesignyarnsandfabrics;marketingspecialistsforeachoftheselevels.Movingintotheend-usearea,thereareproductdesigners―thosewhoplanthedesignsfortheuseoffabricsinapparel,homefurnishings,transportation,industry,etc.;garmentmanufacturers;domesticmanufacturers;industrialfabricmanufacturers;productmanufacturersforalloftheseend-uses;marketingspecialistsforthewholesaletrades;marketingorganizationsfortheretailtrade,andallothersinvolvedinthetransferofthetextilefiberthroughallofthevariousstagestothefinalconsumer.1.2TextileEducation/纺织教育Atthefour-yearcollegelevel,aswellasinmanyjuniorandcommunitycolleges(two-yearprograms),thestudyoftextilesisanintegralpartoftheretailingcurriculum.Quiteoftentheseprogramsareinthehomeeconomics,humanecology,andconsumerscienceareasofthecollegeandcarrysuchnamesasfashionmerchandising,fashionretailing,andconsumermarketing.Althoughgenerallynotfoundasamajorprograminbusinessschools,retailingalsoisandhasbeenformanydecadesatraditionalcourseofferedinbusinesscurriculums.1.2.2EducationintheCollege/大专院校的纺织教育1.3.2RecognitionofConsumers'BuyingMotives/消费者的购物动机Thediscriminatingconsumerhasatleastsomeofthefollowingquestionsinmindwhenbuyingafabric:Isthissuitabletomyneedsandwants?(suitability)Canitbewornforanumberofdifferentoccasionsorpurposes?(versatility)Willitconservetimeandeffort?(convenience)Willitwearwell?(durability)Willitbewarminwinter?Isthetexturesuitable?(comfort)Willthismaterialbeeasytodry-clean,launder,protectfrommoths,mildew,andsoforth?(care)Isthearticlesafetouse,eitherflame-resistantornonirritatingtotheskin?(safe)Isthefabricgood-looking?Willitlookgoodonme?Willitgowellwithothergarmentsorwiththesurroundingsinwhichitwillappear?(becomingness)Isitinfashion?(appearance)Doesthepricecomewithinmymeans?Isitagoodbuy?(price)DoIwanttobuythismerchandisebecauseofassociationsitcallstomind?BecausesomeoneelsehassomethinglikeitandbecauseIdon'twanttobeoutofstyle?(sentiment)Willownershipofthismerchandisegivemeasenseofpossessingsomethinguniqueandofgreatrarity?(prideofownership)Willpeoplebeimpressedwithmyselection?Isitinlinewithwhatmygrouprecognizesasacceptable?(recognition)Doesthismerchandisesatisfyacreativeurge,particularlyinbuyingyardgoodsandaccessories?(creativity)CHAPTER2TEXTILEFIBERS/纺织纤维Thetermtextilefiberreferstoanyproductcapableofbeingwovenorotherwisemadeintofabrics.Thesebroadreciprocaldefinitionsarenowacceptedandusedbynearlyeveryonewhoworkswithfibersorfabricsatanystageofmanufacturingorprocessing.Fibersarethesmallestvisiblecomponentsofmostfabrics.2.1Introduction/引言2.1.1WhatisaTextileFiber/什么是纺织纤维2.1.2Classification/分类Whenthestudyoftextilefiberswasnew,textilefiberswereclassifiedintothecategoriesofanimal,vegetable,andmineralmatter,basedonasystematicarrangementoffibers.Withthedevelopmentofman-madefibersthisearlyclassificationwasmadeobsolete,andnewsystemshadtobedevised.2.1.3FiberProperties/纤维性能Thegeometrical,physical,andchemicalpropertiesofthetextilefibersareveryimportantfactorsforprocessingthosefibersintoanykindoftextile