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MargaretBruceandRachelStuddContentsIntroduction3-10Introduction4TextileDesign5RoleofTextileDesigners6TextileDesigninBusiness7DesignasaCreativeProcess8DesignProjectManagement9TextileDesignProcess12-34TextileDesignProcessModel13-Trigger14-ProjectPlanning15-SourcingDesigner17-Briefing18-IdeaGeneration22-Research23-ConfirmingtheBrief24-DesignCreation26-Colour27-DesignSolution29-DesignPresentation30-DesignSelectionandSampling31-PurchasingandCOPYRIGHT32-Production33-Evaluation-MonitoringandControl34CaseStudies35-47-CompanyA36-CompanyB38-CompanyC40-DesignStudio42-Free-LanceDesigner(Weave)44-DesignConsultant46References48-50ContentsINTRODUCTIONTheHandbookThishandbookoffersagenericapproachtodesignwithintextilesandclothing.Itisoneofasetofthreehandbooks.Theothertwointheseriesare:'StepstoMarketingExcellence''StepstoInnovationExcellence'Theseprovidethebusinessmanagerwithacomprehensiveguidetobusinessfunctionsessentialtosuccessinacompetitivemarketplace.TheseriesweresupportedbyEuropeanSocialFund,undertheAdaptinitiative.'StepstoDesignExcellence'ThishandbookcoversallaspectsofTextileDesignasagenericsubjectalthoughwithintextilesthereisarangeofactivities:FashionFurnishingTechnicaland:PrintedWovenKnittedThedetailsoftheprocessmodelmayvaryaccordingtothecontext.Butadesignmanagementprocesscanbedefined,whichencompassesthisrangeofdesignactivities,asshowninFigure4.CasestudiesinthefinalsectionoftheHandbookillustrateitsapplication.Theprocesscoversthetriggerstostartadesignactivity,throughtopreparationofbrief,detaileddesign,launchandevaluation.Milestonesorkeystagesintheprocessarehighlighted.Thesemeetingsareattendedbydecision-makersintheprocessandoccuratkeymilestonesintheproject.Theyappraiseprogressandmakeadecisionwhethertheprojectshouldcontinueontothenextstageofdevelopment.IntroductionTextileDesignTextilesisatraditionalmanufacturingindustrywithworldclassstrengths.Todaycompanieshavetoreorientatethemselvestoconcentrateonthedevelopmentofstrongdesignskillsandcloserelationshipswiththeircustomers.Designexistsinasocial,historical,economicandpoliticalcontextwhichestablishesconstraints,perceptionsandconditionsforgrowth.Tosurvive,designmustmeettheneedsandchallengesofthatcontext.(Schneider1992)TextileDesignisabroadarea,coveringsurfacepatterntotextureforfashiontofurnishing,andinmanycasesthesewillbetheexamplesthatwillbeconsidered.But,designwithinTextilescanalsomeancreatingnewfibresortechnicalfabrics,forexamplethedesignofcarairbagsandinthesecasestheaestheticsoftheproductarenotthekeypriority.Companiesarefacinganincreasinglycompetitivemarketplaceanddesigncanbeawaytodifferentiatetheproductinthemarketplacebymakingitmoreaestheticallypleasingandmorefunctionallyeffective.Designisacompanyactivitythatneedstobemanagedinthesamewayasanyothercompanyactivity,inordertousedesigneffectively.Anincreasedemphasisondesigncanhelpmovetowardshighervalueproductswhichareinturnlessvulnerableinavolatilemarketplace.TheGovernmenthaslongrecognisedthevalueofdesigntoUKCompetitiveness:“Theeffectiveuseofdesignisfundamentaltothecreationofinnovativeproducts,processesandservices.Gooddesigncansignificantlyaddvaluetoproducts,leadtogrowthinsalesandenableboththeexploitationofnewmarketsandtheconsolidationofexistingones”.(Bruce,CooperandVazquez1997)Designlikeanyresourceshouldbeusedeffectivelyandtherearespecificwaysinwhichdesignprojectsandguidelinescanbefollowedtoensureaconsistentandcosteffectiveendresult.TextileDesignRoleofTextileDesignersTherearethreekeywords,whichsumupskillsthatgooddesignersshouldpossessandthatindustryshouldvalue:lCreativitylOriginalitylCharacterTheroleofatextiledesignerinindustryistoguidethedevelopmentofdesirableappearanceandhandleoffabrics.Therearethreedifferentmethodsinwhichadesignercanbeemployed:In-HouseDesigner-withinthecompanyitselfDesignConsultant-out-sourcedadviserFree-LanceDesigner-out-sourceddesignerManycompaniesarehavingtodownsizetheirorganisation.Oftendesignisseenasoneofthedepartmentswhichcanbeclosed.Inthesecasestheuseoffreelancedesignersbecomesacrucialpartofacompany'screativity.Forminglong-termallianceswithFreelancersisimportanttogiveacreativestimulusGoodcommunicationisthekeytoasuccessfulproject.Threecoreskillslieatthecentreofdesignmanagement:lSourcingskillslBriefingskillslEvaluationskillsThishandbookdescribesadesignmanagementprocess.Caseexampleshighlighttheapplicationofthisprocessincompaniesusingfreelancerstoin-housedesigners.RoleofTextileDesignersTextileDesigninBusinessFourCornerstonesofBusiness•Quality•ProfessionalismandPlanning•Individuality•AbilityRogerSaul-Mulberry(Coats97)Thestructureofthetextileindustry10yearsagowasverydifferentfromtoday,asshowninfigures1and2.Inthepast,theindustrywasorientedtoproductionandsales.Figure1Intoday’senvironment,designingconceptstomeetconsumerneedsinaquickresponsemodedefinesthestructureoftheindustry.Designisacorefunctionwherethefocusisontheconsumerneeds,asspecifiedbytheretailerandrepresentedinfigure2.Figure2TextileDesigninBusinessTradingStructure-1980'sDesignSeminar99ProducerDesign-ProductionSaleRetailerSaleMarketingtoconsumerWhol