ChineseTraditionalCostumeChineseTraditionalCostumeHanDynastySuiandTangdynastiesSongandYuandynastiesMingandQingDynastiestheRepublicofChinaModernsocietyHanfuHanfuisknownasHanzhuang,isthetraditionaldressoftheHanChinesepeople.ThetermHanfuderivesfromtheBookofHan,whichsays,''thenmanycametothecourttopayhomageandweredelightedattheclothingstyleoftheHan.''(后数来朝贺,乐汉衣服制度)Yi(衣):Anyopencross-collargarment,andwornbybothsexes.Pao(袍):Anyclosedfull-bodygarment,wornonlybymen.Ru(襦):Opencross-collarshirt.Shan(衫):Opencross-collarshirtorjacketthatiswornovertheyi.Qun(裙)orchang(裳):Skirtforwomenandmen.Ku(裤):Trousersorpants.ThestructureInformaldressTypesincludetops(yi)andbottoms(dividedfurtherintopantsandskirtsforbothgenders),andone-piecerobesthatwraparoundthebodyonceorseveraltimes)Semi-formaldresschang(裳):apleatedskirtbixi(蔽膝):longfrontclothpanelattachedfromthewaistbelt.zhaoshan(罩衫):longopenfrontedcoatFormaldressXuanduan(玄端):averyformaldarkrobe,equivalenttotheWesternwhitetieShenyi(深衣):alongfull-bodygarmentCurving-frontrobe(曲裾):diagonalbodywrappingPanlingpao(盤领袍):closed,round-collaredrobe;mostlyusedforofficialdressCostumeinTangDynastyThebriefintroductionofcostumeinTangDynastyThefeaturesofcostumeinTangDynastyHowdoescostumeinTangDynastycomeintobeing?ContentsTangDynastyFromtheSuitotheTang,theancientChineseclothingdevelopedtoitspeak.Thepoliticalstability,economicdevelopment,manufacturingandtextiletechnology,andthefrequentforeignrelationscontributedtothedevelopmentofclothing.Theclothinginthisperiodhadformedthemostfantasticchapterintheclothinghistory.FeaturesThegeneralfeaturesofwomen'scostumeinTangdynasty:•topless(上空装,袒胸装)•exposedarm•obliquecollar•largesleeves•longskirtdressAllofthesemakeitdeservethemosttypicalopenclothingstyle.Theclothingmaterialsareexquisite,thestructureisnatural,gracefulandelegant,andadornmentsaresplendid.FeaturesThisisthepicture《BeautiesWearingFlowers》showingaladystrollinginthecourt.Theladywaswearingaleno-madeuppergarment,high-waistskirtandwithoutunderdress.Thisiscalled“topless”TheTangwomendressedinsetsofgarments,andeachsetauniqueinitself.FeaturesIngeneral,theTangwomen'sdressescanbeclassifiedintothreecategories:Thetraditionalruqun(襦裙)ordoublelayeredorpaddedshortjacketthatistypicalofcentralChina.FeaturesThehufu,oraliendressthatcamefromtheSilkRoadCross-Dressing(namely,girlsdressedasboys),thefullsetofmalegarmentsthatbrokethetraditionoftheConfucianformalitiesFeaturesHowdoescostumeinTangDynastycomeintobeing?Frist,inChinesehistory,theTangDynastywasaperiodofunityandprosperitywhenthepolityandeconomywerehighlydeveloped.MaterialisticabundanceandarelativelyrelaxedsocialatmospheregavetheTangDynastyanunprecedentedopportunitytodevelopculturally,reachingitsheightinpoetry,painting,musicanddance.Second,basedontheprogressmadeinsilkreelinganddyeingtechniques,thevarietyqualityandquantityoftexitlematerialsreachedanunprecedentedheight.HowdoescostumeinTangDynastycomeintobeing?HowdoescostumeinTangDynastycomeintobeing?Third,theTanggovementwastolerant,andoftenappreciativeofreligions,artandculturefromtheoutsideworld.ThoughtheformsofgarmentswerestillthecontinuationoftheHanDynastyandSuiDynasty,theyhavedistinctivestylesbyitselfbeinginfluencedbyculturesandartsoftheWesternRegions.Thankyouforyourlistening!SongDynastyCostumeofSongDynasty(960-1279)wassimpleandnatural,reflectingthedevelopmenttendencyoftheera.ThestyleofcostumeinSongDynastytendedtobeconservative,impressingpeoplewithsimple,pureandelegantfeelings.Themaincharacteristicsofwomen’sclothingarenarrow,long,thin.唐代文化是一种开放的类型,但宋代文化则是一种相对收敛的类型,两者有很大的差异,宋代在政治上虽然开放民主,但由于“程朱理学”的思想禁锢,和对外政策的妥协退让,服饰文化不再艳丽奢华,而是简洁质朴。宋代强调“存天理,灭人欲”的观念,使人的个体对立性全部仰制了,对妇女的约束也推到了极点,所以宋代女装拘谨、保守,色彩淡雅恬静,宋代不论权贵的皇亲国戚,还是一般的百姓,都爱穿着直领,对襟的褙子,因为既舒适得体,又显得典雅大方。SongDynastyTheclothingstyleofSongDynastyischaracterizedbyitselegance.Menusuallyworegownswithroundcollars,whilewomenworeshortjacketsorcoatswithmatchingshortrobesorChinese-stylejacketswithbuttonsdownthefront.Thiselegantstylewasinfluencedbythedressofthenorthernminoritypeoples.Gauzepants.SouthernSongdynasty.Chayuanshan,Fuzhou,Fujianprovince.Thispairofpantsismadefromextremelythingauzedecoratedwithpreciousobjects(goldingots,swastikas,coral,rhinocerotichorns,dharmawheels),lozengesandflowers,allarrangedinanelegantandorderlymanner.PantsinthisstylewerepopularintheSongdynastyandusuallywornunderalongskirt.SongDynastyIthasalreadybeganfoot-bindingintheSongdynastywhensancunjinlianhascameintobeing.三寸金莲YuanDynastyTheYuanDynasty(1279-1368)wastheamalgamationageofethnicgroupsinChina’shistory,andthedressesandpersonaladornmentsofthistimealsofullyrepresentedthisfeature.ThecostumesofYuanDynastyhasnofixedstyle,themainstyleisrobe.Thereislittledifferenceinrobebetweenmenandwomen.However,duetotheCharacteristicofnation,thegarmentsinYuanDynastyaredividedintoMongolianstyleandHanstyle.YuanDynasty蒙古族女子,时兴戴一种很有特色的“罟罟冠”,高约70-100厘米,其顶端扩大成平顶帽形;外面以红绢、金锦或毛毡包裱。YuanDynastyZhisunfu:质孙服上衣下裳,上紧下短,并在腰间加襞(bì)积,肩背挂大珠Zhisunfuwasjustformulatedin1321duringthereignofYuanEmperorYingzongbyreferringtoanci