WSETAdvancedLevel–LookingbehindtheLabels酒标背后TastingandEvaluatingWineTastingwineratherthansimplydrinkingitincreasesourappreciationofthewinebyallowingustoexamineitintheprocesscanseemrepetitiveatfirst,withpracticeitbecomesasubconscioushabit.Forcingustoputoursensationsintowordsmeanstheimpressionofthewinelingerslongerinourmemory.Italsohelpsuscommunicatetootherpeoplewhatthewineislike,sometimeslongafterwehavetastedit.Thisisanessentialskillforanyoneinvolvedintheproduction,distributionorsaleofwine.AswewillseeinChapter2,successfulfoodandwinematchingrequiresustoconsidertheseparatecomponentsofthesystematicapproachtotastingoutlinedbelow,showsushowtodothis.葡萄酒品尝和评估葡萄酒品尝实际上就是通过品尝时的细节判断,为饮用者增加感官享受。这样的过程在一开始需要反复练习,时间久了就成为一种下意识的品尝习惯。强迫自己把感官体会用语言描述出来即便于记忆,同时又有助于我们和别人交流品尝时的感觉。这对于任何一个生产商、经销商和销售人员都是极为重要的技能,就如后面第二章里提到的成功的餐酒搭配要求能够考虑到酒的各个口感组成。我们就用下面的品尝概要来描述如何进行品尝和产品评估。TastingandEvaluatingWine品尝和评估PreparationfortastingTheidealtastingroomwillbeodour-free(nosmellsofcleaningproducts,tobacco,foodorperfume),withgoodnaturallight,andwhitesurfacesagainstwhichwecanjudgetheappearanceofourwines.Ourtastingpalateshouldbeclean,andunaffectedbytobacco,food,coffee,gumortoothpaste.Chewingapieceofbreadcanhelpremoveanylingeringflavors.Hayfever,coldsandfatigueaffectourabilitytojudgewines,becausetheyaffectoursensesoftasteandglasseshavebeendevelopedtoshowdifferentwinesattheir,weneedonetypeofglassinordertomakefaircomparisonsbetweenglasshasaroundedbowlthatislargeenoughtoswirlthewine.Thesidesslopeinwardsinatulipshapetoconcentratethearomas,andthestemallowsustoholdtheglasswithoutwarmingthewine.品尝前的准备工作理想的品尝环境首先需要一个干净无味的空间,无论是洗涤用品、烟草、食物或者香水;自然光线;白色桌布表面(用来判断酒的颜色);清理口腔包括烟草、食物、牙膏、口香糖等,无味或少许咸味的面包可以有效去除逗留在口腔的各种味道;发烧感冒或疲劳都会影响评估能力,因为他们会直接影响品尝和嗅觉感官;TastingandEvaluatingWineTheWSETSystematicApproachtoTasting(Intermediate)Thisapproachsystematicallydescribesaspectsofawineintheorderweencounterthem.Appearancefirst,thenthenose,thenthepalate,andfinallywemayuseourimpressionstodrawaconclusionaboutthequalityofthewine.品尝和评估与WSET中级课程的品尝相似,这个品尝体系能够使品尝者在遇到各种不同产品时都能从酒的各方面去描述产品,首先包括酒的外观和颜色、然后是香气、其次是口感,最后是综合产品各方面的表现来整体评估产品的质量。TastingandEvaluatingWineAppearanceThemainreasonforlookingattheappearanceofawineisthatitcanwarnusofawineistooold,hasbeenbadlystored,orthecorksealhasfailed,allowingairtodamagethewine,thenitisdescribedasout-of-condition.Itwillbedullinappearance,andwillhaveatleastahintofbrown,thoughabrowncolourdoesnotalwaysindicateafaultywine.(Brownhintscanappearinhealthyoldwines,particularlythosethathavebeenagedforverylongperiodsinoak.)Hazinessmayindicateafault,oritcouldbethatthewinehasdeliberatelynotbeenfilteredbeforebottling.品尝和评估葡萄酒外观观察葡萄酒的外观的主要原因在于提醒我们注意产品是否存在瑕疵。如果葡萄酒的年龄过大,那么已经在储存过程中损坏了,或者橡木塞损坏而导致的氧化都被形容为意外状况out-of-condition.此时的酒在外观上会出现阴暗呆滞,或者开始显现出棕色,虽然偏棕色未必一定是有问题的酒。(大部分健康的老酒也都会出现棕色,特别是经过长时间橡木储存的葡萄酒)混浊也是葡萄酒出现问题的一种表现,或者是在装瓶前未经过滤澄清。TastingandEvaluatingWineItisworthmakingaquicknoteofthecolour.Lookattheintensity:isitparticularlyintenseorpalePurpleisanindicationofyouth;orange,amberandbrowncoloursareindicatorsofage.However,bearinmindthatsomewineschangecolourmorerapidlythanothers,sonodefinitiveconclusionsaboutactualagecanbereached.Ifitiswhitewine,isitlemonorgoldGreenindicatesyouth;orangeandbrownindicateage.Forrosewine,abrightpurply-pinkindicatesyouth;orangeandbrownhintsindicateage.Thefollowingareexamplesofmoreprecisedescriptions:clear,intenserubydullandcloudy,darkbrownclear,medium-intensity,garnetclear,palegold品尝和评估葡萄酒对葡萄酒进行一个快速简介的描述是非常必要的。观察颜色的深度:是否特别深或者浅紫色是年轻的表现;橙色、琥珀色和棕色则是年老的表现。不过,有些葡萄酒的颜色转变特别快,所有很难作出精确的判断。如果是白葡萄酒,究竟是柠檬色还是金色发绿表示年轻;而橙色和棕色表示年老。桃红葡萄酒,亮丽的粉红色表示年轻;橙色和棕色表示年老。下面是一些精确描述的例子:清澈的深宝石红;阴暗混浊的深棕色;清澈而中等深度的石榴红;清澈的淡金黄色;TastingandEvaluatingWineNoseSwirlitintheglasstoreleaseasmanyaromamoleculesaspossible,thentakeasniff.Thenmakeanoteoftheconditionofthenose.Themostcommonfaultthatcanbediscoveredonthenoseiscorktaint.Atlowlevels,thiscanstripthewineofitsfresh,fruityaromas.Atitsworst,itcanaddapungent,unpleasantdampcardboardormustysmelltothewine.Out-of-conditionwineswillsmelldullandstale,andmayhaveexcessiveoxidativearomas(coffee,caramelorsherry).HowintensearearomasAretheyparticularlypronounced,orlightandhardtodetectDescribingthesmellisamoresubjectiveaspect.Itwilldependgreatlyonyourpreviousexperiences.Therearewell-understoodreasonswhyaromassuchasbutter,vanilla,roseorraspberryappearinsomewines,andotheraromasarelesswellunderstood.Someoneavoidusingaromadescriptors,butinordertoevokethewinetheirtastingnotesoftenusewordssuchas‘feminine,elegant,clumsy’,butthesewordsaredifficulttodefine.Objectiveapproachwouldinvolvenamingtheparticularchemicalcompoundswhicharepresent,whichisalmostimpossibletodoaccuratelyanduselesstomostwinedrinkers.Makeyouraromadescriptionvocabularyaswideandpreciseaspossible.Alwaysbeaware,tastingnoteistohelpdescribeawinetosomeonewhohasnottastedit.WineTastingSmellthewine,youcan:Differentiatethequalityandstyleforbothgrapesandregions;Estimatethewineanddescribeit;TastingandEvaluatingWinePalateItisoftensaidthattastingisanentirelysubjectivematter.Itistruethatoursensitivitiestosweetness,acidity,t