ThefashioninChinaBy王雅馨Differentstages•HanDynasty•TangDynasty•QingDynasty•TheRepublicofChinaHanFu------ThetraduinalclothesofChineseHanPeople•Hanfu(汉服)isthetraditionalcostumethathasbeenwornbyHanChinesepeopleforapproximately5000years.ItisbelievedtohavebeenwornbytheearlyleaderofChina,Huangdi(黄帝垂衣裳而制天下).汉服穿衣示意图——中衣Hanfu(汉服)hasmanypatterns.Zhongyi(中衣)isusuallyworninside,whichlikeashirt.Wearinginthehouseaspajamas,too.Usually,it’swhiteorotherplaincolour.•Ruqun(襦裙)iswornbywomen.Whenitscollarlikestheletter“y”,wecancalleditJiaolingruqun(交领襦裙).Ifitscollarlikesthenumber“11”,wecancalleditduijinruqun(对襟襦裙).Whentheyareclassifiedbyitsheightoftheskirt,wecancalledthemqiyaoruqun(齐腰襦裙)——Whichwaistbandisonthewaist.Orqixiongruqun(齐胸襦裙)——Whichwaistbandisabovethechest.•Shenyi(深衣)isusuallywornasafulldress(礼服),whichwecanwearonChineseholidayandsomeimportantceremonies.Ifitsedgeisbent,wecancallitQuju(曲裾).Ifitsedgeisstraight,it’scalledZhiju(直裾).Andtheycanbothwornbywomenandmen.TangDanysty•FromtheSuitotheTang,theancientChineseclothingdevelopedtoitspeak,thepoliticalstabilityandeconomicdevelopment,manufacturingandtextiletechnology,thefrequentforeignrelations,contributingtothethedevelopmentofclothing.•Skirt、shirt、shortembroideredcape(wornoverawoman‘sshoulders)帔(披肩)。theskirtseemsverylong.(唐代女装主要由裙、衫、帔组成。这时常将衫掩于裙内,所以显得裙子很长。帔又名帔帛,像一条长而薄的披巾。)Thefeatures•裙、衫、帔的统一。在妇女中间,出现了袒胸露臂的形象•唐代女服的领子,有圆领、方领、斜领、直领和鸡心领等。短襦长裙的特点是裙腰系得较高,一般都在腰部以上,有的甚至系在腋下,给人一种俏丽修长的感觉。•图案精美花鸟服饰图案、边饰图案、团花服饰图案在帛纱轻柔的服装上,真是花团锦簇,争妍斗盛。•唐代女子服饰宽大丰满飘然欲仙WELCOMETOQINGDYNASTYWideandlooseCoverbodyA-lineQingChineseclothing•●shirtisnotexposed•(衫不露外)•●theright-sidelapelofjunctiondecoratedwithbuttons•(偏襟右衽以盘纽为饰)•●clothingplusclothing•(衣外加衣)•●increasewaistcoatorjacket•(增加坎肩或马褂)QingChineseclothing•●Rectangularoutline(外轮廓呈长方形)•●clothesdonotgetthewaistdown(衣服上下不取腰身)•●Horseshoe-shapedsleevecoverhand(马蹄袖盖手)•●setrollingcraftdecoration(镶滚工艺装饰)•●flowerpotshoes(花盆鞋)中国传统文化—旗袍TheRepublicofChina–CheongsamThedefinition•TheQipaoorChi-Pao,alsoknownasthecheongsamormandaringown(长袍);•Abody-hugging(紧身的)one-piece(连衣裙)Chinesedress;•TheEnglishvocabularycheongsamcomesfromtheCantonese(广东话).•ItisknowninMandarinChineseastheqípáoinBeijingandShanghai.WhycallQipaochinadress•Qipao,whichisfamouswithitsharmonyandunity,isknownastherepresentativeoftheChinesedressculture.•ItshowstheeleganttemperamentofChinesewomen,demonstratesthecultureandvirtuesofournation.•Itcreatesanimpressionofsimplicityandquiet,charm,eleganceandneatness..It’samagnificentrainbowofthehumanculture.1920s1930s1940sQingdynastyRepublicofChina•Frog盘扣Thestructure立领襟衩刺绣•Mandarincollar立领•Lapel/frontofagarment襟•Openings衩•embroidery刺绣Thestyle(样式)•Chi-paohasmanystyles,andthechangeismainlybasedonsleeves,Jin,collar,openings,andthelengthofCheongsam.longsleevesshortsleevessleeveless.如意襟roundJin琵琶襟PipaJin斜襟slantingJin双襟doubleJin高领highcollar低领collarless无领lowcollar高开衩highopenings低开衩lowopeningsRepresentativefigures•张爱玲EileenChang(1920-1995)Awell-knownwriter,beaddictedtocheongsam.•Lifeisacolorfulgown,coveredwithlice.生命是一袭华美的袍子,上面爬满了虱子。•宋美龄•SoongMay-ling(1897-2003)•FirstladyinRepublicofChina.旗袍第一夫人•Sheownsthemostnumberofqipaoallovertheworld.Picturesappreciating玉脂白Expo(展览会)2010ShanghaiChina立领采用中式旗袍的演变,既有中国文化含义的诠释又融入了国际时尚化的设计手法。CheongsamforMissManners青花瓷青花瓷系列设计灵感取自青花瓷器,采用了中国传统针绣,再现了青花瓷的晕染效果。宝蓝