制鞋英文Portionname部位名称Material材料Operation操作Portionname部位名称Upper(front-heel)•toecap•Quarter•Eyeletstay•Heelcap•Tongue•Underlay•Overlay•lining•insole•bootie•mudguard•Tool•Cuttingdie•screen•mold•scissor•negativepad底部•wedge•stabilization•Shank•solidrubber•blownrubber•injectionphylon•Material材料皮格leather•Bovine/Cowleather•Pigleather•Fullgrain•Splitleather•Suede•Cowsuede•Pigsuede•Goatsuede•NubuckPU/Textile•microfiber•nonwovenbacker•clothbacker•mesh•airmesh•Synthetic•NylonmeshRe-in-force-ment•nonwoven•Thread•Hook/fleece•hotmelt•topping•cosmo•hardboard•self-adhensiveOperation操作upper•binding•stitchingandturn•stitching/sewing•Zigzagstitching•emboss/deboss•sublimation•pattern/shell/sharepattern•Punch•Skive•Backstitching•Fadingprint•embroideryupper/bottom•Frenchcord•edgestitching•primer•cement•drying/dryer•chilling/cooling•rough-ing/buff-ing•texture•toelasting•sidelasting/heellasting•Heater/heatingshoe•insock•Medial/lateral•instep•wrinkle/twist•overlacing•axis•toplinegague•ball•Sticker•overglue•loose•yellowing前套/前套面Toecap/Tip鞋头片/鞋头面Vamp鞋眼片Eyeletstay鞋身/腰身Quarter鞋舌Tongue反口里CollarliningHeel/HeelCap后套冲孔Perforation侧片/挡泥片Sidepiece/mudguardInstepheight脚背高度内外腰高度Mdeial/lateralheightHeelheight后跟高度内腰in/Medial外腰Out/lateral外腰Out/lateralCollar滚口/反口Logo商标Sidepiece前侧片前套饰片Toecapunderlay中底midsole大底/外底outersoleoverlayunderlayUpper鞋面/帮面Insole中底中底/midsole大底/外底outersole拉帮/加州/套楦stroble中底布Insole攀帮boardlasting中底板Insoleboard面料选用uppermaterial皮革Leather人造革/合成革依背理分类依表面纹路效果分类依物性分类网布Textile/mesh依结构分依材质分网布处理效果防脱纱上重浆上油糊头层二层皮Leather皮革Fullgrain头层皮Fullgrain头层皮Nubuck牛巴哥Pigskin猪面皮goatskin羊皮Kangaroo袋鼠皮Splitleather2层皮牛反毛cowsuede猪反毛Pigsuede/Pignubuck压花皮/Pucoated/Puaction喇叭滚边Binding滚边/包边Binging法国滚FrenchCord合万能/合缝Zigzagstitching反车/反接StitchingandTurn回针Backstitching单针singlestitching双针doublestitching锁边/拷克车edgestitching冲刀CuttingDiePrinting印刷楦头Last削皮skive开发样进程prototype预选样Preselection正选样selection确认鞋CFMshoeprototypeprototype舊型體新配色colorupdate:做預样時要有足夠材料可以做确认鞋新型體新配色newmodel:做正选样時要有足夠的材料可以做确认鞋Preselection:有时又叫做RangeReview35天生产交期小批量全套冲刀试穿鞋手剪全套跳号母号7~14天10~14天10~14天10天7天7天2.预告BOM含配件,车线分段规格鞋带/鞋撑1.确认BOM2.CDCT完成留底鞋1.确认鞋制作工程试作进程正选样50天Validate提供英文BOM与色卡给大货业务预购物性测试外测成品测试拉力面底拉力/中大底拉力Bonding鞋眼拉力Eyeletholepullingstrength/breakingstrength拉带拉力Looppullingstrength鞋舌拉力耐黄测试UVlightSunlight整鞋弯曲一搬弯曲角度30/45,长温10万次/20万次耐寒弯曲零下20度C止滑Slipresistance鞋面车缝Seamstrength老化aging乾老化70度C,乾湿环境同一搬环境湿老化70度C,相对湿度95%材料测试PU剥离Peelingstrength撕裂Tearstrength耐曲折Flexionresistance耐磨abrasionresistance(Marindalemethod)耐黄Yellowing:UVtest色牢度colorfastnessMesh鞋面用途:爆破MullinBurstingstrength耐磨abrasionresistance(Marindalemethod)耐黄Yellowing:UVtest拉力tensilestrength撕裂Tearing内里用途耐磨abrasionresistance(Marindalemethod)