瑞士文化产业发展

TourismManagement21(2000)307}312CulturaldesignsinNewZealandsouvenirclothing:thequestionofauthenticityqMaggieAsplet!,*,MalcolmCooper!WaiarikiInstituteofTechnology,PrivateBag3028,Rotorua,NewZealandUniversityofSouthernQueensland:WideBayCampusPOBox910,HerveyBay,Queensland4655,AustraliaReceived3April1998;accepted4February1999AbstractThispaperreportsononeaspectofatwo-yearstudyintotheviabilityofmarketsforAustralasiantouristapparel,thatoftheauthenticityofthemotifsusedwhenlocalculturalthemesaredepictedonclothing.Whenthewiderstudyiscomplete,theresultwillbeacomparativeanalysisoftheimportanceofsuchmotifsintheproductionofclothing,andtotheshoppingbehaviouroftouristsinrelationtotheseproducts.Followingapilotstudycarriedoutduring1996,asurveyof322visitorswascarriedoutbyface-to-faceinterviewinNewZealandduringMay}December1997.TheresultssuggestthatthereisindeedanimportantnichemarketintheproductionofdesignertextilesandclothingincorporatinglocalNewZealandculturalmotifsforsaletotourists.Thedataderivedfromthevisitorsurveyalsoshowthatauthenticitywithrespecttoculturalmerchandiseissignicant,thoughtheresultsarenotasconclusiveasexpected.(2000ElsevierScienceLtd.Allrightsreserved.Keywords:Designertextilesandclothing;Authenticity;Culturalmotifs;Apparel;Nichemarkets1.IntroductionManywritershavenotedthatcommunalheritageandculturallifeisanundervaluedtourismresource(Hall,Mitchell&Keelan,1991;Zeppel&Hall,1991;Craik,1992).Ontheotherhandtourismhasoftenbeencriticisedashavingaveryhighpotentialforadverseimpactsonlocalandindigenousculturalvalues(Graburn,1976;Pizam,1978;Anderson,1990;Cohen,1992;Hollinshead,1992;Mathieson&Wall,1982;Picard,1995).Oneresultofthetensionbetweentheseopposingviewsisincreasingpressurefororiginator-con-troloftheuseofculturalmotifs(designs,scenesdepictingaspectsofculturalhistory,etc)fortourismpurposes.Ownershipoftherightstotheintellectualandculturalpropertyembodiedinsuchmotifsisoffundamentalimportancetothesuccessofattemptstocontroltheuseofindigenousculturalimageryincreativemerchandising(Janke,1997;MinistryofCommerce,1997).*Correspondingauthor.Tel.:[phone];fax:[phone].qThesurveysreportedinthispaperweremadepossiblebygrantsfromtheWaiarikiPolytechnicResearchCommitteeandtheUSQSta!DevelopmentFund.Theoverallresearchproject,ofwhichthepresentstudyformsapart,isexploringthecommunicationofAustralasianculturalandenvironmentalmotifstoover-seastouriststhroughtheproductionandsaleofsouvenirclothing.Theintentionistoassesstheviabilityofnichefashionmarketsaimedattouristsales,andtheabilityoftheapparelindustrytosustainthese.ThepresentpaperreportsontheresultsofasamplesurveyofvisitorscarriedoutinNewZealandduringMay}December1997,fromwhich322useableresponseswereobtained,withrespecttotheirpurchasesofapparelandtheimport-anceoftheauthenticityofculturalmotifs.ThenextstagewillseethissurveyreplicatedinAustralia,andthestudyextendedtoincorporatetheviewsoftheapparelandsouvenirindustriesinbothcountrieswithrespecttosuchnichemarkets.Thesurveyresultsprovidesomeinsightsintothebe-haviourofvisitorsasconsumersofculturalmotifsintheformofapparel.Theyreinforcethesuggestionmadebyseveralwritersthattheremaybeanichemarketintheproductionofdesignertextilesincorporatingculturalmotifsforsaletotourists(Littrell,1990;Healy,1994).Nevertheless,thedevelopmentofsuchmarketsisprob-lematicalandoneofthemajorproblemsappearstolieinthe&authenticity'oftheculturalmotifsthemselves0261-5177/00/$-seefrontmatter(2000ElsevierScienceLtd.Allrightsreserved.PII:S0261-5177(99)00061-8(Littrell,1990,1994a;Webster,1997;Handszuh,1992;Blundell,1993).Itwasimportant,therefore,totestthelikelyimpactofthisfactorbyspecicallyconcentratingonthequestionofculturalauthenticityandthedi!eringresponsesoftouriststothisaspectofintellectualandculturalpropertywhenappliedtotouristorientedmer-chandising.Thatisthethemeofthepresentpaper.2.Issuesintheuseoftouristmerchandiseasaformofculturalexpression}thequestionofauthenticityTheconceptofculturehasbeendebatedintheanthro-pologicalliteratureforovertwocenturies(Mathieson&Wall,1982).Broadly,cultureisthewayapeopleexpressthemselves}notonlyverbally,butalsoindress,lifestyle,beliefsandpractices(Crocombe,1983).RitchieandZins(1978)ontheotherhandhavedenedculturaltourismas`theconsumptionbytouristsoffeaturesre-semblingthecultureofasocietya.Theyidentiedcertainelementsofculturewhichattracttouriststoparticulardestinations.Thesewere:fHandicrafts;fLanguage;fTraditions;fGastronomy;fThehistoryofaregion,includingvisualreminders;fThetypesofworkengagedinbyresidentsandthetechnologyused;fArchitecturegivingtheareaadistinctiveappearance;fReligion,includingvisiblemanifestations;fEducationalsystems;fDress;andfLeisureactivities.While`resemblanceaneednotincludetotalaccuracyinproduction,ithasoftenbeenobservedthatabeliefinauthenticitylendstremendousweightandvaluetocul-turalobjects(Healy,1994).Theknowledgethataculturalsouvenirislocallyhandmadeisalsosaidtobeanimpor-tantingredientinestablishingthisauthenticity}prod-uctsmadebylocalhandsare&genuine';mass-producedcommoditiesmadeelsewhereareintherealmofth