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Chapter4printingoftextiles第四章织物印花ByCC4.1introductiontoprinting印花简介ColoureddesignsDyesorpigmentsmustbeappliedinapredeterminedpatterntothetextilesubstrate.染料或干粉必须按预定的图案应用到纺织品上Thelocalizedapplicationofdyeorpigmenttoatextilesubstratetogenerateadesign.局部的应用基底生成染料或干粉在织物基底的局部应用以形成图案Printings印花•Free-handprinting任意手绘印花Free-handprinting任意手绘印花•Timeconsuming•时间消耗大•Doesnotalwaysresultinauniformrepeatofamotif•图案式样难一致[kən'sju:miŋ]adj.消费的[məuˈti:f]n.装饰的图案或式样Block-printingtechnique模板印花Printingprocess印花工艺1.Dyeisfirstlydissolvedandpastedwithasmallquantityofwaterandasuitablethickeningagent2.Dyeisappliedtofabricanddriedimmediately1.将染料溶解于水，然后用少量水将适量增稠剂与之混合2.染料应用到织物，然后立即干燥Printingprocess印花工艺3.Dyeisfixedonthefabricbysteamingorheating4.Fabricissoapedandwashedwithwater3.通过蒸汽或加热固色4.最后将织物洗涤100-102℃for3-5minPigmentprinting涂料印花•用涂料而不是用染料来生产印花布已经非常广泛，以致开始把它当作一种独立的印花方式。涂料印花是用涂料直接印花，该工艺通常叫做干法印花，以区别于湿法印花(或染料印花)。Pigmentprinting涂料印花Binder粘合剂Pigment干粉颜料Printingblends混纺印花Anyfibretype任何纤维类型Pigmentprinting涂料印花Providedthereisenoughbinderpresent，nowash-offprocessisneed假如，若是清洗工序粘合剂Reduceprocessingcosts减少成本Reducetime节约时间Reducetheamountofeffluentproduced降低排污量污水，污染Pigmentprinting涂料印花problemThethickenerremainsintheprintedarea，trappedinthebinderfilmcanleadtoadeteriorationinthefabric’shandle.增稠剂残留在印花区域，夹在粘合层中，可能会导致织物手感变差。Printingtechniques印花技术•Blockprinting•Mordantprinting•Resistprinting•Screenprinting•Rollerprinting•Transferprinting•Photographicprinting•模板印花•媒染印花•防染印花•筛网印花•滚筒印花•转移印花•照相印花Printingmethod印花方法Rollerprinting滚筒印花Screenprinting筛网印花Transferprinting转移印花Typesofprintingmachines印花机器的种类Rollerprinting滚筒印花Rollerprinting滚筒印花Theprintingcolor染料Thefabric织物Engravedrollers印花滚筒Rollerprinting滚筒印花Screenprinting筛网印花Flat-bedscreenprinting平网印花Rotaryscreenprinting圆网印花Flatscreen-syntheticfibreormetalgauzestretchedtautlyoveraframeSeamlesscylindricalscreenswhicharecomposedofanickelmeshTransferprinting转移印花Polyestersubstrates涤纶基底Transferprinting转移印花Theselected____________arefirstprintedontoa______________usuallybyrotaryscreenprinting；____________________andthisprintedpaperarethenpassedintoa_______________thatisheatedupto180℃；bytheactionof______________________,thedyesbecome__________andtransfertothefabricandthen_____________________;further__________orwash-offprocesses.dispersedyescellulosicpaperthefabrictobeprintedtransfercalendartemperatureandpressuregaseousdiffuseintothefibresfixationPrintingstyle印花式样Directprinting直接印花Dischargeprinting拔染印花Resistprinting防染印花Directprinting直接印花amulti-coloredprint多色印花onawhiteground白底Dischargeprinting拔染印花Theuniformdyeingofthefabricbyanyoftheconventionaldyeingmethods,followedbydryingandprintingathickenedsolutionofanoxidizingagentsuchassodiumchlorateorareducingagentsuchassodiumsulphoxylateformaldehydeandsteaming.任何常规染色方法对织物均匀染色随后烘干并将含有氧化剂如氯酸钠或还原剂如雕白粉的浆料印在织物上再汽蒸Resistprinting防染印花thatwillresistthegroundcolourfromfixingintheprintedarea印花部位底色无法固色AchemicalPrintingpaste印花浆thegroundcolourisfixedonlyinthenon-printedareas.印花部位之外的部分完成固色_____⑤_____防染印花Batikprinting___⑥___Bestknown最有名的Resistingagent防染剂Wax蜡4.2Rollerprinting滚筒印花Rollerprintingmachine滚筒印花机Centralpressurecylinder中心承压辊筒Engravedrollers刻花辊筒Furnishrollers给浆辊筒4.2Rollerprinting滚筒印花Engravedrollers刻花辊筒Impartcolorstofabric将颜料传递到织物上Function功能4.2Rollerprinting滚筒印花Engravings雕刻凹纹aseriesofparallelchannels一系列平行的凹槽7/1000to8/1000ofaninchdeep千分之7到千分之8英寸深4.2Rollerprinting滚筒印花Colourdoctor刮浆刀Lintdoctor铜刮刀4.2Rollerprinting滚筒印花Engravedroller刻花辊筒Pressureroller承压辊筒Furnishroller给浆辊筒4.2Rollerprinting滚筒印花•Thefastestwayofprinting•最快的印花方法•Requiresskilledlaborandmuchheavymanualworkinthechangingofthecolourtroughsandrollers•需要技术工，并且在更换颜料槽和辊筒时需要大量劳动力•Initialinvestmentissohigh•早期投资巨大screenprinting筛网印花Handscreenprinting手工筛网印花Flat-bedscreenprinting平网印花Rotaryscreenprinting圆网印花4.3screenprinting筛网印花Handscreenprinting手工筛网印花Preparationofscreen筛网准备Silkorsyntheticfibreormetalgauze丝网，合成纤维丝网，金属纱网Nikelmesh镍网Preparationofscreen筛网准备Photochemicalprocess光化学加工工艺Design图案Screen筛网Photosensitivematerial感光材料4.3screenprinting筛网印花Flat-bedscreenprinting平网印花Flat-bedscreenprinting平网印花Thefabricincontinuouslength连续织物Anendlessconveyorbelt连续传送带thescreensarearrangedsidebysideabovethefabric筛网并排放置在织物上thebeltisautomaticallysettomoveforwardbyoneorseveralpatternrepeatsatatime.传动带一次自动向前一个或几个印花单元thecoloursareappliedtothefabricbythesqueegeeaction刮浆板将颜料应用到织物上Rotaryscreenprinting圆网印花Seamlesscylindricalscreens无缝圆柱形网Rotaryscreenprinting圆网印花Eachrotaryscreenispositionedacrossthefabric每个圆网横放在织物上Asthescreenrotates,itisfedwithprintingpastewhichisforcedthroughtheopenmeshareasbyastationarysqueegee当圆网转动，颜料浆被静止的刮浆棒从筛孔中挤出Andontothefabricbeingthroughbeneathbythecontinuouslymovingconveyor应用到位于圆网下方传送带上的织物Advantagesofscreenprinting筛网印花的优势Producelargerrepeatsthanthoseimpossibleinrollerprinting比滚筒印花更大的花型单元Providegreaterscopeinstylingespeciallyinfurnishingfabrics提供更多花样造型，特别是家装织物Reducemachinedown-time减少机器停机时间Commonfaultsinscreenprinting筛网印花常见瑕疵specksofcolour色斑Lightprint印花太浅Smudgingoftheprint印花墨点Deeperprints印花太深Unevenprints印花不均匀Tinyholesinscreen漏洞Toomuchsolidsintheprintingpaste颜料浆太稠Scre