维多利亚服装

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Letustakeyouonatourofwomen’sclothinginVictoriafashioninthe19thcentury.Specialbonnets(软帽)•Bonnets,replacingthegreathats,changedthewholecharacterofdaydresses.In1835,Thelookofdemureprimgentilitywasemphasizedbythelossofthegreathatsforbonnets.•In1836Gigotsleevescollapsedabruptly.•Costumebegantodevelopthesentimental'earlyVictorianlook'weassociatewithQueenVictoria'searlyrule.TheearlysentimentalVictorianlookoftenusedtodepictladiesoftheera,c1838•Allthebonedbodice(胸衣)seamlinesandtrimsweredirectionaltoemphasizethesmallwaists•By1845thebonedbodice(胸衣)wasevenmoreelongatedintoaVshape.•ThismeantthatanearlyVictorianwoman'sarmmovementswererestricted.Flounces(荷叶边)wereaddedintheearly1840stomaketheskirtsappearwider.BeautifulflouncesCartridgepleats(筒打褶)wereusedatfirsttodrawtheskirtfabricin1841Cartridgepleats•Laterby1850thewordcrinolinebegantomeanthewholeofthebeehiveshapedskirt(蜂巢状裙子).•Itwasthenonlyanothersteptocallthelaterartificialorcagehoopedsupportframepetticoatsafter1856,crinolines.FactorsAffectingtheFashionSilhouetteafter1860•sewingmachine(缝纫机)hadbeeninvented•couturedesign(服装设计)playedamoreimportantroleinclothesworld•syntheticdyes(合成染料)madeitpossibletohaveintensecolors(强烈色彩)•Crinoline(裙撑)domedskirtsilhouettetowardsthegarmentback.Clothingdesigner——CharlesWorth•Hewasagreatdesigner,andhedesignedanoverskirt,whichcaughtoninEnglandafter1868.ThenewPrincessgown•ThePrincessgownwascutinonepieceandconsistedofanumberofjoinedpanelsfittedandgoredfromshouldertohem•LaterPrincessstyleswereslimmerandmuchmoreformfitting.Sleevesindaydresseswereoftenofabananashape.Anothertopskirt__apron•RounderwaistlineswerefashionableandevenbegantoriseveryslightlyBallgownswithatrain•From1870,ballgownsalwayshadatrain.•Soonby1873thetrainwasseenindaydress.softpolonaisebustlestyles•By1875thesestylesbecamesoextreme•thesoftfullnessbegantodropdownthebackofthegarment•Trainswereveryheavilyornamented•Thisfascinatingeradidn’tendwiththedeathofQueenVictoria.•Manyhistoriansbelievethattheso-called“Victorian”endisaftertheendoftheFirstWorldWar.ThePrincessLineSheath•ThesoftpolonaisestylebustlestyleswerereplacedbyPrincesssheathgarmentsDresswithcuirassebodice•Thecuirassebodicewascorsetlikeanddippedevendeeperbothfrontandbackextendingwelldownthehipscreatingthelookofabodyencasedinarmour.TheNewHardBustleof1883•.Ithadminimaldraperycomparedtotheformerandaslimmermorefittedseverelytailoredprincessbodice,withamuchflatterfront.•Thesharpertailoredjacketfashiongavethemadifferentposturewithamoreconfidentairreflectingtheidealsofearlyfemaleemancipation.•Thegownsofthe1880swerealmostalwaysmadeintwocoloursofmaterialThelegofmuttonsleeves•Thelegofmuttonsleevescontinuedtodevelopandsproutedhighabovetheshoulders,By1895thesleevesswelledintoenormouspuffssimilartothoseof1833.Ashappenedin1830tobalancethehugeshoulderstheskirtwidenedandflared,whilstkeepingthewaisttightandhandspannarrow.Theleaderofthewomen’liberationmovement_ClaraZetkinIn1887,SmithAstorfromtheUKworetrousersanddeclared:”Pantsarenotonlycomfortable,healthy,butdignified.”•Victoria’scostumehadnotonlychangedthedevelopmentofcostumeartsandtheprogressofthesociety,butalsoimprovedthestatusofwomen.Inourview,Victoriancostumesarebeautifulandluxuriant.It’sthenoblesymbol.But,whenwomenatthattimeworethebreathlessgarmentandtheheavybustle,whocanunderstandtheirpain?Thatwasboundunderthebeautifulappearanceistheirsoul.•Whentheskirtrobereplacedbytrousers,women’sstatushadundergoneearth-shakingchanges.Notonlyweretheyfreedfromtheshacklesofsocialconventions,butalsoclothingartswaspushedtoanotherpeak.荷叶边lotusleaf立领collarmulti-layeredcakecutting(多层次蛋糕裁剪),VictoriancostumefeaturesVictorianstylearefrom1837to1901,duringthereignofQueen.IntheconservativeVictorianera,theneedforpureculture,womenmustputtheirtightlywrappedhighwaist(高腰)wrinkle(褶皱legofmuttonsleeves(羊腿袖)蝴蝶结bowsCorset(紧身褡)womenwithhighsocialstatuswouldwearcorsets,whichdragstothegroundwithalongskirt,andfastensthewaist.Wearingthistight-fittingsuitseemselegance.ClothesinVictorianPeriodbowlerhat(“波乐帽”)Tailcoat(燕尾服)Scottishkilt(基尔特)BritishStyle(英伦风)PartonetypicalclothesinGreatBritainbowlerhat(“波乐帽”)ThemostprominentofEnglandnationaldressistheEnglishgentleman'sbowlerhat.Thebowlerhat,alsoknownasacokehat,isahardfelthatwitharoundedcrownoriginallycreatedin1849。Traditionally,theBritishnobility,distinguishedcelebritieshavetowearthishat.Today,inthestreetsofmajorcities,suchhatshavebeenrare,butnotdisappeared.tailcoat(燕尾服)TailcoatsoriginatedintheUnitedKingdom,inthe18thcentury,evolvedfromthecavalryservice.Thehistoricalreasonthatcoatswerecutthiswaywastomakeiteasierforthewearertorideahorse.Butitisextremelybeautiful.Thismakestheotherbranchestofollowup.Thus,cavalryclothinghadbecomefashionamongciviliansandofficialsandpopularinBritainanditscolonies.Overtheyearstailcoatsofvaryingtypeshaveevolvedintoformsofformaldressforbothdayandeveningwear..

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