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29320083JournalofTextileResearchVol.29No.3Mar.2008:025329721(2008)03201372061,2,1,3(11,200051;21,315211;31,201600)3:(203070)(208090)(21),,,;,,;;;:TS941116:AReviewandanalysisofpressurecomfortofgarmentYINLing1,2,ZHANGWenbin1,XIALei3(11FashionInstitute,DonghuaUniversity,Shanghai200051,China;21CollegeofArtandCommunication,NingboUniversity,Ningbo,Zhejiang315211,China;31FashionInstitute,ShanghaiUniversityofEngineering&Science,Shanghai201600,China)AbstractTheprogressofstudyonpressurecomfortofgarmentisdividedintothreechronologicalphases,whichrespectivelyareearlystudy(from1930sto1970s),medium2termstudy(from1980sto1990s)andcurrentstudy(from2000stonow).Thepaperreviewedhotstudiesofeachphaseandanalyzedexistingdefectsandadvisedpossiblesolutions.Inconclusion,thepapersuggestedseveralideasandnewtrends,onewastoassociatethemicrostructureoffabric,humanskinandsofttissuewiththeirmacro2performance,andanotherwastoestablishasystemwhichcanforecastpressurecomfortofgarmentbasedondynamicmechanicalinteractionsbetweenhumanbodyandgarmentwhileconsideringthehumansphysiologicalandpsychologicalfactors,andthefinalwastobuildanintegratedsystemwhichcanforecastthehumanswholesensationcomfort.Keywordsgarmentpressure;pressurecomfort;comfortthreshold;dynamicmechanicalcontact:2007-01-27:2007-10-16:(20050255011);(20061620):(1977),,,E2mail:yinling@mail.dhu.edu.cn,,,,[1]3,,,(,clo)[2],,,,,,[3]1,,1,13Fig.1Threephasesonpressurecomfortofgarment111(203070)2:;,1966KirkWm,[4]IbrahimSalimM1968,[5]1972Denton11963192kPa,,[6]51889.81kPa,7.85kPa,,,,[7]1975Verillo,01001mm[8]112(208090),,112114,,,[9]Denton,HarumiMorooka,:Denton,315,315HarumiMorooka,,,BMI,[10]NorikoIto,HarumiMorooka,AyakoInamura,:[11-13],,,[14],,31),,831292),43)4),,,11212()()(),,Makabe,41005133kPa[15]Makabe3.2kPa,11472.13kPa[16]Makabe,2146kPa[17],,,,,:1),820,,,2),,,,,,()2,,,,,,[18],2Fig.2Sensationthresholdofdifferentpartsonthehumanbodysskin3)2,,,,,,,,,,4),,,1132000,,,2002,,,,9313:[19],,,,,,,2003,,,,,,,[20],,,,,,2004,YeungKW,,,3,,,[21],,,,,[22],,,,,,,2211,,,,,,,,,,,,212,,,(),,,,,(),,,(),,,,,,041292131941,Gagge,(clo)[23],,,(),,,214,,,,;,,,;,,,215,3:,390%[9],,,,,,,,,3,,,,,FZXB:[1].[D].:,2005.[2]HolliesNRS,GoldmanRF.Clothingcomfort:interactionofthermal,ventilation,constructionandassessmentfactors[M].Michigan:AnnArborSciencePublisherInc,1977:1-10.[3].[M].:,2002:2.[4]KirkWm,IbrahimSM.Fundamentalrelationshipofextensibilitytoanthropometricrequirementsandgarmentperformance[J].TextileResearchJournal,1966,57:37-47.[5]IbrahimSalemM.Mechanicsofform2persuasivegarmentsbasedonspandexfibers[J].TextileResearchJournal,1968,38:950-963.[6]DentonMJ.Fit,stretchandcomfort[J].Textiles,1972(3):12-17.[7],.[J].,2004,25(5):58-60.[8]VerilloRT.Cutaneoussensations[C]PPBScharf(Ed).ExperimentalSensoryPsychology.Glenview:ScottForesman,1975:1-10.[9],.[J].,2006,27(7):109-112.[10]MorookaHarumi,FukudaReiko,NakahashiMiyuki,etal.Clothingpressureandwearfeelingatunder2bustpartonapush2uptypebrassiere[J].SeniGakkaishi,2005,61(2):53-58.[11]ItoNoriko,InoueMari,NakanishiMasae,etal.Therelationamongthebiaxialextensionpropertiesofgirdleclothsandwearingcomfortandclothingpressureofgirdles[J].JpnResAssnTextEndUses,1995,36:102-108.[12]MorookaHarumi,NakahashiMiyuki,MorookaHideo.Compressivepropertyoflegsandclothingpressureofpantyhosefromtheviewpointofdifferenceinage[J].Jpn1413:ResAssnTextEndUses,1997,38:44-52.[13]AyakoInamura,MasaeNakanishi,MasakoNiwa.Relationshipbetweenwearingcomfortandphysicalpropertiesofgirdles[J].JpnResAssnTextEndUses,1995,36:109-118.[14],.[J].,2000,14(2):133-137.[15]MakabeH.Astudyofclothingpressuredevelopedbythegirdle[J].JpnResAssnTexEndUses,1991,32(9):424-438.[16]MakabeH,MomotaH,MitsunoT,etal.Astudyofapparelpressuredevelopedbythebrassiere[J].JJpnResAssnTextEndUses,1991,32(9):416-423.[17]MakabeH,MomotaH,MitsunoT,etal.Effectofcoveredareaatthewaistonclothingpressure[J].SeniGakkaishi,1993,49:513-521.[18]CorenS,WardLM.SensationandPerception[M].NewYork:HarcourtBraceJovanovichPublishers,1989:20.[19]ZhangX,YeungKW,LiY.Numericalsimulationof3Ddynamicgarmentpressure[J].TextileResearchJournal,2002,72(3):245-252.[20]LiY,ZhangX,YeungKW.A3Dbiomechanicalmodelfornumericalsimulationofdynamicmechanicalinteractionsofbraandbreastduringwear[J].SeniGakkaishi,2003,59(1):46-55.[21]YeungKW,LiY,ZhangX.A3Dbiomechanicalhumanmodelfornumericalsimulationofgarment2bodydynamicmechanicalinteractionsduringwear[J].JTextInst,2004,95:59-79.[22]LiY,ZhangX.Mechanicalsensoryengineeringdesignoftextileandapparelproducts[J].JournalofTextileandInstitute:Part2,2005,93(2):54-67.[23]GaggeAP,BurtonAC,BazetHC.Apracticalsystemofunitsforthedescriptionoftheheatexchangeofmanwithhisenvironment[J].Science,1941,94:428-430.()GlobalCOE(GlobalCentersofExcellence)2008101519,:1);2)P;3);4);5);6)P;7);8);9);10);,;;200861;,,,200881,,():@zstu.edu.cn,CD:(310018)2:0571-86843602,8684362024129